Day 5: Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole to Aumont-Aubrac

Day 5: Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole to Aumont-Aubrac (14 kilometres, 8.8 miles)

The last day of walking along this section of the Chemin de Saint-Jacques is an easy stroll of 14 kilometres (8.8 miles) and will have you arriving in Aumont-Aubrac in time for lunch.

Back street, Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole, GR 65, France

Early morning in the back streets of Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole

There’s plenty of time to explore Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole before you leave if you didn’t do so yesterday afternoon or to take a closer look at the Romanesque arches which mark the origins of the twelfth century church.

Church, Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole, GR 65, France

Beautiful stonework and arches in the church at Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole

Church bells, Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole, GR 65, France

One of the most delightful sounds in France is the church bells which ring out every hour

View from the chateau, Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole, France

Today’s walk takes us through the glorious countryside surrounding Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole

From Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole, the Chemin de Saint-Jacques climbs steadily for half an hour or so, passing farms and tiny hamlets along quiet country lanes until it reaches the shade of the forest.

Between Saint-Alban and Bigose, GR 65, France

View back to Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole

Somewhere between Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole and Bigose

Passing through a tiny hamlet, a cluster of farmhouses and outbuildings, somewhere between Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole and Bigose

Approaching the forest

I spotted this shelter deep in the forest and assumed it had been used by shepherds or others looking for a little protection from the rain or the hot sun. Later that day, a French walker told me it would have been used by hunters who would crouch behind the cover and shoot anything they saw moving outside. Mmm… Hopefully, that was just poor translating on my part. (Another walker, a few days later, agreed it would have been used by shepherds.)

Five kilometres (3.1 miles) before Aumont-Aubrac, the GR 65 reaches the hamlet of Bigose. The gîte here serves cold drinks all day and offers a most appreciated opportunity to relax and reminisce over the last four days of walking.

Pinned to a tree at the entrance to Aumont-Aubrac, the Pilgrims’ Prayer asks God to provide shelter and protection for pilgrims—from danger, from the sun, the rain and the cold, from injury, and asks that having reached their goal, they might return home safe and sound.

Back street, Aumont-Aubrac, GR 65, France

Back street in Aumont-Aubrac

Aumont-Aubrac marks the end of this stage of the walk. It’s a popular overnight stop on the pilgrims’ trail with many hotels, chambre-d’hôtes and gîtes, a pharmacy, ATMs and a supply store which sells poles, rain jackets and anything else you may have left at home.

If you are breaking your walk along the Chemin de Saint-Jacques du-Puy over several visits to France, daily train or bus links into Aumont-Aubrac make it a perfect place to finish or restart your journey.

L’église de Saint-Etienne in Aumont-Aubrac

Almost 90 kilometres (56 miles) of walking deserve a reward and here in Aumont-Aubrac you’ll find a Michelin-starred restaurant where you can celebrate your efforts. Cyril Attrazic is attached to Hôtel Chez Camillou (where I have stayed on two of my visits to Aumont-Aubrac). You can check the menu and make a reservation on their website. (Prices range from €85 to €125.)