(Published September 2013, last updated April 2024)
Founded in 1118 by Saint Bernard, Abbaye de Fontenay is the oldest and one of the most beautifully preserved Cistercian abbeys in Europe.
Occupying over 1,200 hectares of land in a wooded valley, it enjoyed a peaceful existence for most of its first seven hundred years—interrupted only by English looting in 1359 during the Hundred Years War.
The Forge at Abbaye de Fontenay
The abbey was confiscated in 1789 during the French Revolution and the last remaining monks left the following year.
In 1791, the new owner transformed the buildings into a paper mill. Thirty years later, the site was bought by Elie de Montgolfier, a descendent of the inventor of the hot air balloon, and developed into a paper factory.
The original Porters Lodge, now the entrance to Abbaye de Fontenay
Montgolfier’s son-in-law later acquired Fontenay and, in 1906, dismantled the industrial buildings and began restoration works to bring the site back to its original state.
A small museum near the entrance displays photos of the buildings and grounds prior to the restoration, highlighting the incredible work that has been done.
Fontenay was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1981 and is still preserved and maintained by the Montgolfier family today.
Several movies have been filmed here at the abbey—the best known perhaps being the 1990 version of Cyrano de Bergerac with Gérard Depardieu.
From mid-April until mid-November, guided tours are held throughout the day. However, if you prefer to explore on your own, a guided map (available in many languages) provides insight into the history of each of the buildings including the refectory, the monks’ room, the chapel, the cloister and the forge.
Each September, mass is held here to commemorate the consecration of the church on 21 September, 1147.
Let’s take a look around…
FAST FACTS
Which long-distance walk visits Abbaye de Fontenay?
The Burgundy Canal (between Migennes and Pouilly-en-Auxois)
Where is Abbaye de Fontenay, France? Find it on Google maps
Abbaye de Fontenay is just under six kilometres (3.8 miles) from Montbard which is located 102 kilometres (64 miles) along the Burgundy Canal. It can be easily accessed from Montbard on foot or by renting a bicycle from the Tourist Office (details below).
If you prefer to travel by foot, follow the GR 213 walking path from the canal. After passing through Montbard, you’ll meander through the fields and reach the abbey a little over an hour later.
If you are following my suggested itinerary for this 12-day journey, you’ll arrive in Montbard after five days of walking and cycling from the starting point of Migennes.
This relaxed pace allows plenty of time to visit the nearby attractions of Château de Maulnes, Château de Tanlay and Château d’Ancy-le-Franc and the ‘most beautiful villages’ of Flavigny-sur-Ozerain and Châteauneuf-en-Auxois.
If you prefer to set your own agenda, I share the steps I take to plan my itinerary on any long-distance walk (using the Chemin de Stevenson as a case study).
Bicycle hire is available at several Tourist Offices along the Burgundy Canal from VéliBourgogne. Bikes can be returned to any of the offices, so cycling some, or all, of the stages is very easy to arrange. In addition to Montbard, bikes can be picked up or returned at Migennes, Tonnerre and Ancy-le-Franc (the Dijon office is currently closed for 2024).
Train line Lyon—Dijon—Laroche—Paris connects Montbard with several other towns along the Burgundy Canal including Joigny, Laroche-Migennes, Saint-Florentine-Vergigny, Tonnerre, Nuits-sous-Ravières, Les Laumes-Alèsia and Dijon.
Train line Dijon—Laroche—Auxerre also connects Montbard with Laroche-Migennes, Saint-Florentine-Vergigny, Tonnerre, Nuits-sous-Ravières, Les Laumes-Alèsia and Dijon.
Côte d’Or bus line 122 connects Montbard with Venarey-les-Laumes, Alésia, Gissey le Vieil (La Racquette) and Pouilly-en-Auxois.
Tourist Office in nearby Montbard
You’ll find the Tourist Office in Montbard at Place Henri Vincenot near the train station (on the right side of the canal as you walk from Migennes) where the friendly staff will help organise your visit to the abbey. Opening hours are listed on the Tourist Office website.
Abbaye de Fontenay is open to the public every day but closes for lunch during the winter months. Check the Abbaye de Fontenay website for opening hours and details of special events.
Accommodation in nearby Montbard
Hotels
Hôtel de l’Ecu
Hôtel-Bar Neptune
Hôtel les Templiers (book through your favourite hotel booking website)
Chambre d’Hôte
La Maison Léonie (2 rooms, 4 people)
Campground
Campground Municipal les Treilles
How to book accommodation in French
Where to eat in Montbard
Please note that there is no café at the abbey where you can enjoy lunch but there is a full range snack bars and restaurants in Montbard. You’ll also find a bakery and a supermarket at the canal where you can purchase supplies for your walk.
On Friday mornings, a fresh food market provides the perfect opportunity to pack a picnic for the day ahead.
Practical tips for long-distance walking—preparation, packing and avoiding blisters
Purchase the 2024 editions of the Burgundy Canal (PDF) guidebooks (Abbaye de Fontenay is located along the first section between Migennes and Pouilly-en-Auxois).
Purchase both guidebooks covering Migennes to Pouilly-en-Auxois and Pouilly-en-Auxois to Saint-Jean-de-Losne
