(Published November 2013, last updated April 2024)
One of the loveliest of France’s most beautiful villages, Flavigny-sur-Ozerain is perhaps best known as the setting for the film Chocolat starring Juliette Binoche and Johnny Depp.
Long before then though, in the first century BC, Julius Caesar set up camp on the hill here, while at war in nearby Alésia. After his victory, this land was granted to one of his soldiers—Flavinius—and so the village got its name.
The first abbey in Flavigny-sur-Ozerain was built in the fifth century but was quickly destroyed. The current abbey, dedicated to Saint-Pierre, was built for the Benedictine monks in the eighth century. Every year in October, a fair is held to celebrate the consecration by Pope John VIII in 878 AD.
Anis de Flavigny – lolly shop extraordinaire
Today, the abbey is used for the production of aniseed lollies. The same recipe has been in use since the sixteenth century but today the lollies are available in a wide variety of flavours.
The abbey and lolly production line are open to the public on weekday mornings or you can visit the lolly shop Anis de Flavigny—but check the website as opening hours for the shop and the abbey vary throughout the year.
Below the abbey, crypts from the Carolingian time (ninth century) can also be visited and are open in the morning and afternoon.
The austere façade of Saint-Genest
If you have seen the movie Chocolat, you will no doubt want to visit the parish church of Saint-Genest. Although this church is more than nine hundred years old, there is very much a sense of a church well-used and well-loved by the local community. On both sides, stairs lead up to a gallery where you can sit quietly, undisturbed, and contemplate all that these walls have seen over the last nine hundred years.
Let’s visit the church and wander through the back streets…
View from the gallery – inside Saint-Genest
Inside the church of Saint-Genest
Chocolate shop from the movie Chocolat
Picturesque back street in Flavigny-sur-Ozerain
Quaint corner in Flavigny-sur-Ozerain
Heading home, for afternoon siesta perhaps…
FAST FACTS
Which long-distance walk in France visits Flavigny-sur-Ozerain?
The Burgundy Canal (between Migennes and Pouilly-en-Auxois)
Where is Flavigny-sur-Ozerain, France? Find it on Google maps
Flavigny-sur-Ozerain is most easily reached from the Burgundy Canal on bicycle by following the cycle route BC1 (available from the Tourist Office) from Venarey-les-Laumes. The village is also easily accessible by taxi from Pouillenay.
If you are following my suggested itinerary for this 12-day journey, you’ll arrive in Venarey-les-Laumes after six days of walking and cycling from the starting point of Migennes.
This relaxed pace includes a rest day at Tonnerre and allows plenty of time to visit the nearby attractions of Abbaye de Fontenay, Château de Maulnes, Château de Tanlay and Château d’Ancy-le-Franc and the ‘most beautiful village’ of Châteauneuf-en-Auxois.
If you prefer to set your own agenda, I share the steps I take to plan my itinerary on any long-distance walk (using the Chemin de Stevenson as a case study)
Bicycle hire is available at several Tourist Offices along the Burgundy Canal from VéliBourgogne. Bikes can be returned to any of the offices, so cycling some, or all, of the stages is very easy to arrange. In addition to nearby Montbard, bikes can be picked up or returned at Migennes, Tonnerre and Ancy-le-Franc (the Dijon office is currently closed for 2024).
If you arrive in Venarey-les-Laumes on foot, bicycles can be rented locally at Rando Fitness Venarey Cycles. Cycle route A3 will take you to MuséoParc Alésia, and cycle route BC1 will take you on a nineteen-kilometre loop through Alésia, Flavigny-sur-Ozerain and on to Pouillenay.
Train line Lyon—Dijon—Laroche—Paris stops at Les Laumes-Alèsia, a short distance from Venarey-les-Laumes, as well as Joigny, Laroche-Migennes, Saint-Florentine-Vergigny, Tonnerre, Nuits-sous-Ravières, Montbonnet and Dijon.
Train line Dijon—Laroche—Auxerre stops at Les Laumes-Alèsia as well as Laroche-Migennes, Saint-Florentine-Vergigny, Tonnerre, Nuits-sous-Ravières, Montbonnet and Dijon.
Côte d’Or bus line 121 connects Venarey-les-Laumes with Pouillenay and Marigny-le-Cahouët.
Côte d’Or bus line 122 connects Venarey-les-Laumes with Montbard, Alésia, Gissey le Vieil (La Racquette) and Pouilly-en-Auxois.
Tourist Office in Flavigny-sur-Ozerain
There is no Tourist Office in Flavigny-sur-Ozerain but you’ll find helpful staff at Société des Amis de la Cité de Flavigny at Maison au Donataire on Rue de l’Église.
You can read about the history of the village on the Anis de Flavigny website.
Accommodation in Flavigny-sur-Ozerain
Chambres d’hôtes
La Maison George (6 rooms, 12 people)
La Maison du Tisserand (2 rooms, 5 people)
Couvent des Castafours (2 rooms, 4 people)
La Maison des Oiseaux (2 rooms, 4 people)
La Flavignienne (1 room, 2 people)
Maison Galimard (book through your favourite hotel booking website)
How to book accommodation in French
Where to eat in Flavigny-sur-Ozerain
The first time I visited Flavigny-sur-Ozerain, it was a glorious summer day, the cafés were open, the village was buzzing and I fell in love with its charm and sense of history. When I returned with friends some years later on a cold, gloomy, windy day in September, the cafés were closed and except for a few customers in the aniseed lolly shop, the village seemed deserted – it was a completely different experience.
There are two restaurants in Flavigny-sur-Ozerain which, according to their websites, are open every day except Monday from Easter until the end of October. If you are hoping to have lunch during your visit, I recommend phoning ahead to check they will be open and to make a reservation.
Restaurant de l’Abbaye (closed Wednesday) 03 80 96 27 77
Ferme Auberge La Grange (varies according to the season) 03 80 96 20 62
Practical tips for long-distance walking—preparation, packing and avoiding blisters
Purchase the 2024 editions of the Burgundy Canal (PDF) guidebooks (Flavigny-sur-Ozerain is located along the first section between Migennes and Pouilly-en-Auxois).
Purchase both guidebooks covering Migennes to Pouilly-en-Auxois and Pouilly-en-Auxois to Saint-Jean-de-Losne
What is the best time to visit, we were thinking maybe may or June
Hi Charlene, I think June is better although it will be more crowded. The weather is likely to be sunnier and more attractions will stay open for more hours throughout the day and during lunch hours. The only down side is there will be more tourists. No matter when you go, it is a beautiful village! Melinda