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Cahors (Chemin de Saint-Jacques)

By Melinda Lusmore

Cahors on the Chemin de Saint-Jacques, France banner

(Published May 2013, last updated March 2024) 

Two thousand years ago, long before France was France, the Roman invasion was spreading throughout the known world. In the first century BC, a small settlement on a corner of land bordered on three sides by the River Lot, was conquered and the town of Cahors was established. 

Today Cahors is a vibrant town and the centre of a thriving wine industry—an historic quarter filled with ancient buildings and narrow lanes only adds to the charm. 

Café tables set outside under large beige umbrellas, in front of a pale brick building with light blue shuttered windows

Café le Lamparo in the old section of Cahors

From the twelfth until the fourteenth century, Cahors prospered. Trade along the river flourished and bankers and merchants relocated here from as far away as Lombardy in Italy. Wine from the region was exported throughout France and beyond to Great Britain.

In the fourteenth century, during the Hundred Years War, a defensive wall with eleven towers and two gates was built along the northern edge of town. (The River Lot provided protection on the other three sides of town.) All that remain today are Tour Saint-Mary, Tour de Morlaas and Porte Saint-Michel in Rue de la Poudrière.

Before you scroll to the bottom for practical tips on where to stay and where to eat, let’s take a look around town.

Place François Mitterand on Boulevard Gambetta, Cahors

Place François Mitterand on Boulevard Gambetta

When you arrive in Cahors, call into the Tourist Office on Place François Mitterrand and ask for Itinéraires à travers la ville—a map which will guide you around town passing 44 historical sights.

Let’s start exploring…

Take a walk around town—or ride the Tourist Train

Boulevard Gambetta, the main street, divides Cahors neatly into new and old sections. Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall), Palais de Justice and other important civic buildings were built on the western side in the nineteenth century but to the east, you’ll find the cathedral and many houses dating from the thirteenth to sixteenth centuries.

Exterior of an early Roman chapel in Cathedrale Saint-Etienne behind the gardens which provide a supply of flowers for the altar

The gardens behind the cathedral provide a constant supply of fresh flowers for the altar

If your time is limited, or you’ve done enough walking over the last few days and weeks, Le Petit Train de Cahors will whisk you past all of the main sights in under an hour. It leaves from Quai Valentré and operates every day from May until September.

The Tourist Office also offers several walking tours based around a variety of themes, such as history, wine or monuments such as the cathedral and Pont Valentré.

Interior walls of the cathedral in richly coloured yellows, golds and oranges

The richly coloured interior of the cathedral

Visit the cathedral and cloisters of Saint-Etienne

Construction of Cathédrale de Saint-Etienne began in the eleventh century, although the site had been a place of worship for five hundred years before this. The nave that you stand in today dates from 1120, the north portal was added in 1150, and over the following six hundred years, the building was enlarged to include a choir and several chapels—resulting in an eclectic mix of architectural styles.

Saint-Etienne, Cahors, GR 65, Chemin de Saint-Jacques, France

Model of Cathédrale de Saint-Etienne

The cathedral is closely surrounded on both sides, but a wooden model built by monks allows us to appreciate the detail and beauty more closely.

Saint-Etienne, Cahors, GR 65, Chemin de Saint-Jacques, France

The cloister adjoining Cathédrale de Saint-Etienne

Early in the sixteenth century, a cloister was added next door and remains an oasis of calm and tranquility despite the constant parade of visitors.

Saturday morning market in Cahors, Chemin de Saint-Jacques

Saturday morning market in Cahors

Search for the devil on Pont-Valentré

By the end of the fourteenth century, three bridges spanned the River Lot connecting Cahors to southern France. The oldest two have long gone, but work on the newest and most famous bridge, Pont Valentré, began in 1308.

Pont Valentré, Cahors, GR 65, Chemin de Saint-Jacques, France

Pont Valentré

Legend has it that the architect of Pont Valentré became increasingly worried as construction took longer than expected and funds ran out. He asked the devil for help and promised to pay him with his soul when the bridge was complete. When construction was almost finished, the architect devised a way to free himself from his pact by asking the devil to bring water for the remaining work using a sieve. Of course, the devil was unable to comply and so, was never paid.

Pont Valentré, Cahors, GR 65, Chemin de Saint-Jacques, France

The devil perched high on Pont Valentré

In a final twist to the story, it is said that one stone remains missing from the bridge and whenever it is laid in place, another falls loose. During restoration of the bridge in 1879, a small sculpture of the devil was added high on one of the towers.

Visit le Musée de la Résistance

The highlight of my stay in Cahors was a visit to the Musée de la Résistance.  

The day I visited, we were shown around by a delightful lady – a young girl during the war – who explained the exhibits in a mixture of French and English.  The museum is overflowing with photos and artefacts from WWII – depicting everyday life in Cahors during the German occupation, the hardships, the dangers and the role of the resistance and pays a moving tribute to the bravery and often distressing fate of those who risked their lives to protect their countrymen.

Since my visit, the museum (located on Place Bessières, across the road from Place Charles-de-Gaulle) has closed for renovation but is due to reopen in the same location under the newly refurbished cinema complex. Ask at the Tourist Office for opening dates and hours.

A former wine press, once used to crush grapes on display in Cahors

Old wine press, once used to crush grapes, on display near Pont Valentré

Sample the finest Cahors wines 

The area around Cahors is well known for its wineries. If you are able to base yourself here for a few days, rent a car and head out into the countryside to discover them. The Tourist Office has a number of brochures describing suggested day trips.

During July and August, les Croisières Fénelon offers a cruise west along the River Lot which includes a visit and a tasting at one of the local wineries before returning to Cahors by bus.  

Ambre et Améthyste, Saint-Cirq-Lapopie, Chemin de Saint-Jacques

Gift shops line a lane in Saint-Cirq-Lapopie

Detour to the ‘most beautiful village’ of Saint-Cirq-Lapopie

If you have arrived in Cahors along the traditional GR 65 path of the Chemin de Saint-Jacques, you’ll have missed the ‘most beautiful village’ of Saint-Cirq-Lapopie. It’s not too late to visit and one of the easiest and most pleasant ways is by joining the river cruise offered by les Croisières Fénelon in July and August. The cruise follows the River Lot east to Tour de Faure then travels to Saint-Cirq-Lapopie by bus where you’ll enjoy a guided visit of the village.

If you prefer to visit under your own steam, you’ll find a link to the daily bus timetable below.

FAST FACTS

Which long-distance walk in France visits Cahors?

Chemin de Saint-Jacques du-Puy (Stage 3: Figeac to Cahors) and (Stage 4: Cahors to Eauze)

Where is Cahors, France?   Find it on Google maps

Cahors is located 338.8 kilometres (211.8 miles) along the traditional Chemin de Saint-Jacques path.

My preferred route follows the variante from Figeac through the Célé valley which increases the distance to 359.7 kilometres (224.8 miles)—a relaxing twenty-one day walk from the starting point of Le Puy-en-Velay, but if you are pressed for time, Cahors can be reached quite comfortably in sixteen days. Read more to learn all you need to know about both routes.

Click through to find my suggested itinerary for all five stages of the walk

If you prefer to set your own agenda, I share the steps I take to plan my itinerary on any long-distance walk (using the Chemin de Stevenson as a case study)

A daily bus service (select Lot region, ligne 889) from Figeac connects Cahors with Cajarc (on the traditional Chemin de Saint-Jacques route) and with Saint-Cirq-Lapopie, Conduché, Bouziès and Vers (if you are following the Célé variante).

Les Croisières Fénelon operates le Petit Train de Cahors and river cruises to Saint-Cirq-Lapopie and the nearby wineries. On the Les Croisières Fénelon website, you’ll find the train timetable and further information on all river cruises.

Tourist Office in Cahors 

You’ll find the Tourist Office on Place François Mitterand. Opening hours are listed on the Tourist Office website.

Accommodation in Cahors 

You’ll find a range of options for lodging in Cahors, including:

Hotels
Hôtel Divona 

Hôtel Terminus  
Hôtel-Restaurant la Chartreuse 
Brit-Hôtel le Valentré 
Hôtel Jean XXII 
Hôtel le Coin des Halles
La Chantrerie   

Chambres d’hôtes
Chez Pierre (five rooms, ten people)
Le Papillon Vert (three rooms, eight people)
La Bellours (two rooms, four people)
Troisième Droite (one room, two people)

Pat’s B&B (one room, two people)

Gîtes
Auberge de Jeunesse (38 rooms, 94 people)
Le Relais de Jacobins (15 people)      
Gîte le Deuxieme Soufflé (three rooms, 11 people)
La Maison des Pèlerins (10 people)
Gîte l’Étoile Flamboyante (four people) donativo 

Le Cocon (three people)     

Campground
Rivière de Cabessut 

How to book accommodation in French

Where to eat in Cahors 

There are more cafés and restaurants in Cahors then you could ever hope to try during a short stay. Options range from takeout, cheap and cheerful to refined and elegant, with many showcasing the local produce and specialities. Auberge du Vieux Cahors (near Église Saint-Urcisse in the old section) was recommended by our hotel host and our dinner there did not disappoint.

As you’d expect in any medium sized town, Cahors has several supermarkets and bakeries where you can pick up other essential items.

If you are in Cahors on a Wednesday or Saturday morning, combine your visit to the cathedral with a wander through the market which sets up in front of the church. Like markets everywhere in France, these are a feast of fresh, local produce including fruit, nuts, olives—in fact everything needed for a delicious trail mix blend and much more!

Practical tips for long-distance walking—preparation, packing and avoiding blisters

Purchase the 2024 editions of the Chemin de Saint-Jacques (PDF) guidebooks

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Purchase five guidebooks covering Le Puy-en-Velay to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

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About The Author – Melinda Lusmore

Hi! I’m Melinda, the walker behind I Love Walking in France. Nothing makes me happier than wandering through the picturesque villages and glorious countryside in rural France, and helping others to do the same. Whether you’re looking for practical tips or a little inspiration for your own long-distance walk, you’ll find everything you need right here. This website contains no sponsored posts or affiliate links. If I recommend a product, service or somewhere to stay, it’s because I’ve used it, loved it—and I think you will too!

Comments

  1. Tricia A. Mitchell says

    May 12, 2015 at 5:03 am

    Melinda, though I feel fortunate to have tiptoed through France on many occasions, your posts remind me that there is much more of the country yet to be explored. The Pont Valentré is incredible!

    • Melinda Lusmore says

      May 12, 2015 at 3:52 pm

      Thanks Tricia. I love the carving of the devil high on one of the towers and the story behind him being there!
      I am currently exploring Brittany – an area new to me. The coastline along the western side is staggeringly beautiful!

      • Tricia A. Mitchell says

        May 13, 2015 at 2:41 am

        Happy travels, Melinda! I’ll look forward to seeing your dispatches from Mont-Saint-Michel. 🙂

        • Melinda Lusmore says

          May 13, 2015 at 3:57 pm

          Thanks Tricia. Mont-Saint-Michel is not on the itinerary this trip but I hope to get there later this year!

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Are you dreaming of a walk through the picturesque villages and glorious countryside of rural France and don’t know where to start?

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