Stage 3: Figeac to Cahors (Chemin de Saint-Jacques)

Between Figeac and Cahors, long-distance walkers following the Chemin de Saint-Jacques from le Puy-en-Velay to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port have a choice of two quite different routes—the traditional pilgrims’ trail along the GR 65 or the northerly, and somewhat longer, Célé variante.

Each path offers a different experience and caters to different needs.

If your journey along the Chemin de Saint-Jacques and perhaps on to Santiago de Compostelle in Spain is guided by a desire to follow in the footsteps of religious and spiritual ancestors, you may be more drawn to the traditional path taken by early pilgrims along the GR 65.

If, like me, you’re more interested in picturesque villages, painted caves and the crumbling remains of an ancient abbey, then the Célé variante offers some real gems.

(Published August 2013, last updated April 2023)

Where is the Chemin de Saint-Jacques in France?

Before diving into a comparison of the two paths, let’s look at the towns common to both—Figeac, Faycelles and Cahors.

Figeac

Classified a ville d’art et d’histoire, Figeac is a beautiful town of almost 10,000 people spanning the River Lot. Filled with medieval stone and timbered houses, the backstreets and crooked alleys are a delight to wander through.

Figeac was the birthplace of Jean-François Champollion, the nineteenth-century French scholar who spent more than a decade deciphering the hieroglyphics of the Rosetta Stone. His home is now a museum where you can explore the history of writing.

If you have been walking since le Puy-en-Velay and have not yet stopped for a rest day, Figeac is the perfect place to take a break. The town boasts a full range of services—dozens of cafés, patisseries, chocolateries as well as the ever-useful banks, doctors, dentists and ATMs!

Take a closer look around Figeac and find a comprehensive list of accommodation.

Within an hour’s drive from Figeac, you can visit the village of Rocamadour (also accessible by bus or train) whose ancient buildings cling to the side of the cliff above the River Lot. Venture north for a further one-hour drive and stop to explore one of six of France’s ‘most beautiful villages’. My pick would be Collonges-la-Rouge but you can discover them all between Martel and Rocamadour.  For something completely different, visit the underground lakes and caves, 103 metres below the surface at Gouffre de Padirac. 

Faycelles

If you are not ready for a full rest day in Figeac, but would like to spend some time exploring, an overnight stop in the next village of Faycelles provides a good short-walking day option.

Located 6.6 kilometres (4.1 miles) from Figeac, this usually sleepy village boasts impressive historic credentials. Archaeological digs have uncovered remnants of village life dating from the fourth century, and it was in Faycelles (or perhaps the nearby village of La Cassagnole) that Charlemagne’s twin sons were born in the eighth century.

A map of Faycelles, available from the Tourist Office in Figeac, will guide you on an hour-long walk around the village, past the church, the towers which are all that remain of the château walls, some ancient water fountains and other historic sites.

Cahors

Cahors has occupied its position on a loop of the River Lot since Roman settlers arrived in the first century BC. Today, Boulevard Gambetta divides the town neatly down the middle—modern (nineteenth century) civic buildings to the west, and medieval splendour to the east. 

Allow some time to explore the town, including the Cathedral dedicated to Saint-Etienne with its tranquil sixteenth-century cloister and the famous Pont-Valentré built, so the legend tells us, with the help of the devil.

Cahors is famous for its red wine, made primarily from Malbec grapes and supplemented with Merlot and Tannat. Production of the wine is governed by the AOC (Appellation d’Origine Controlée) which sets strict guidelines on care of the vines, soil and harvesting times and methods. Wines produced under these regulations depend greatly on the mercy of the sunshine and local rainfall and result in vintages which vary from year to year. But they all contain a large dose of love (and none of the chemicals which usually give me a headache!). If you have an afternoon to spare, ask at the Tourist Office about winery tours.

Take a closer look around Cahors, discover the story behind the devil on Pont-Valentré and find a comprehensive list of accommodation.

TRADITIONAL ROUTE OR CÉLÉ VARIANTE ?

Map of the Chemin de Saint-Jacques from Figeac to Cahors

The map of the path shows there are three ways to walk from Figeac to Cahors. You may choose to:

1. Follow the traditional route along the GR 65 path. This route takes four or five days and covers 87.3 kilometres (54.6 miles);
2. Follow the Célé variante along the route described in most guidebooks—taking the GR 651 to Bouziès, then switching to the GR 36—46 path and heading south to rejoin the GR 65 near Bach. This route takes six days and covers 113.3 kilometres (70.8 miles); or
3. Follow the Célé variante to Saint-Cirq-Lapopie, backtrack four kilometres (2.5 miles) to Bouziès, then continue west to Cahors along the GR 36—46. This route takes six day and covers 108.2 kilometres (67.6 miles).

Which path to take is an easy decision for me! Although a little longer and definitely more strenuous, the Célé variante (I prefer option 3 for the views as you approach Cahors) is always my preferred choice.

Although most of the towns you’ll visit are located close to the Célé River, the path leaves each village with a steep climb to the top of the ridge before descending again to reach the next town. It’s hard work but the views are magnificent!

The traditional route along the GR 65 offers a glimpse into life in rural France as the locals experience it, passing through tiny hamlets and bustling market towns. What it lacks in wow factor, it makes up for in convenience with both Cajarc and Limogne-en-Quercy offering a full range of supermarkets, pharmacies and ATMs.

Below, you’ll find accommodation options, itineraries and highlights of the Célé variante, followed by accommodation options, itineraries and highlights of the traditional GR 65 route.

Accommodation along the Célé variante (continuing west to Cahors from Bouziès)

Accommodation is available in the following villages (click on each link for a comprehensive list).

Distances given from Le Puy-en-Velay:

251.5 km             (157.2 mi)           Figeac

255.1 km             (159.4 mi)           La Cassagnole

257.3 km             (160.8 mi)           La Croix Blanche

258.1 km             (161.3 mi)           Faycelles

262.8 km             (164.3 mi)           Béduer

268.8 km             (168 mi)              Corn

272.8 km             (170.5 mi)           Sainte-Eulalie

275.8 km             (172.4 mi)           Espagnac-Sainte-Eulalie

279.8 km             (174.9 mi)           Brengues

283.8 km             (177.4 mi)           Saint-Sulpice

290.8 km             (181.8 mi)           Marcilhac-sur-Célé

292.5 km             (182.8 mi)           Mas de Picarel

299.8 km             (187.4 mi)           Sauliac-sur-Célé

309.8 km             (193.6 mi)           Cabrerets

315.6 km             (197.3 mi)           Conduché

316.8 km             (198 mi)              Bouziès

320.8 km             (200.5 mi)           Saint-Cirq-Lapopie

336.3 km             (210.2 mi)           Pasturat  

340.1 km             (212.6 mi)           Vers (2km from the path)

342.8 km             (214.3 mi)           Les Mazuts

346.6 km             (216.6 mi)           Arcambal (500m from the path)

359.7 km             (224.8 mi)           Cahors

How to book accommodation in French  

Six-day itinerary for the Célé variante (108.2 km/67.6 mi)

Day 1 Figeac to Espagnac-Sainte-Eulalie (24.3 km/15.2 mi)

Day 2 Espagnac-Sainte-Eulalie to Marcilhac-sur-Célé (15 km/9.4 mi)

Day 3 Marcilhac-sur-Célé to Cabrerets (19 km/11.9 mi)    

Day 4 Cabrerets to Saint-Cirq-Lapopie (11 km/6.9 mi)

Day 5 Saint-Cirq-Lapopie to Vers (19.3 km/12.1 mi)

Day 6 Vers to Cahors (19.6 km/12.3 mi)

HIGHLIGHTS OF THE CÉLÉ VARIANTE    

Marcilhac-sur-Célé

In the tenth century, Benedictine monks built an abbey—dedicated to Saint-Pierre—on the banks of the River Célé. All that remains intact of that abbey is the Chapter House where the monks met, but you’ll see glimpses of the original splendour in the ancient columns and the tympanum above the entrance.

Marcilhac-sur-Célé, the village that grew around the abbey, is my recommended stop for the second night on this section of the walk, giving you ample time to immerse yourself in the medieval ruins.

Take a closer look around Marcilhac-sur-Célé and find a comprehensive list of accommodation.

Pech Merle

Located just outside the village of Cabrerets is Pech Merle—widely considered to include the most beautifully preserved historic rock paintings and natural rock formations in France. To gain entrance, take the one-hour-long guided tour (conducted in French but free booklets are available in several other languages).

Visitor numbers are limited to 700 per day and advance bookings are recommended. If you are following my suggested itinerary, you’ll have plenty of time for a morning tour on day 4 before heading off towards Saint-Cirq-Lapopie. (If you are taking each day as it comes, a tour booking the day before should suffice.)

Chemin de Halage

Between Bouziès and Saint-Cirq-Lapopie, the path follows the Lot River which, in the Middle Ages, was the primary route for transportation for goods throughout the area. Flat bottomed barges carried regional produce west towards Bordeaux on the Atlantic Coast and returned with goods which were not available locally. On the return journey, teams of men or horses were needed to haul the barges against the upstream currents.

In one section, more than one kilometre in length, steep cliffs rose abruptly from the river’s edge and a towpath was carved from the rock, allowing the men and horses to continue their walk.

Saint-Cirq-Lapopie

Saint-Cirq-Lapopie is a jewel among France’s ‘most beautiful villages’ and offers a bewildering array of cafés, gift shops and impossibly pretty houses. I think it requires a full-day visit to do it justice (preferably on a Wednesday when the summer market is in full swing), otherwise you’ll be planning a return visit as you walk out of town. (If your schedule doesn’t allow for a full day off, an afternoon bus will take you from nearby Tour-de-Faure on to Vers on day 5.)

This stunning village is the main reason I recommend taking the Célé variante rather than the traditional pilgrims’ trail but take a sneak peek from the link below and decide for yourself.

Take a closer look around Saint-Cirq-Lapopie and find a comprehensive list of accommodation.

Accommodation along the GR 65

Accommodation is available in the following villages (click on each link for a comprehensive list).

Distances are given from the starting point of Le Puy-en-Velay.

251.5 km             (157.2 mi)           Figeac

255.1 km             (159.4 mi)           La Cassagnole

257.3 km             (160.8 mi)           La Croix Blanche

258.1 km             (161.3 mi)           Faycelles

264 km                (165 mi)              Pech Ibert (520m from the path)

269.3 km             (168.3 mi)           Puy Clavel

271.3 km             (169.6 mi)           Gréalou

275.8 km             (172.4 mi)           Le Verdier (400m from the path)

276.6 km             (172.9 mi)           Pech Granat (500m from the path)

278.2 km             (173.9 mi)           Semberot (300m from the path)

281.3 km             (175.8 mi)           Cajarc

290.8 km             (181.8 mi)           Mas de Jantille (430m from the path)

291.9 km             (182.4 mi)           Mas Delpech (200m from the path)

296.7 km             (185.4 mi)           Mas de Dalat

297.7 km             (186.1 mi)           Mas de Games

300.3 km             (187.7 mi)           Limogne-en-Quercy

306.8 km             (191.8 mi)           Varaire

312.8 km             (195.5 mi)           Bach      

321.8 km             (201.1 mi)           Mas de Vers

326.8 km             (204.3 mi)           Mas de Graniou, Le Pech

334.9 km             (209.3 mi)           Marchande

338.8 km             (211.8 mi)           Cahors

How to book accommodation in French  

Five-day itinerary for the GR 65 (87.3 km/54.6 mi)

Day 1 Figeac to Faycelles (6.6 km/4.1 mi)

Day 2 Faycelles to Cajarc (23.2 km/14.5 mi)

Day 3 Cajarc to Limogne-en-Quercy (19 km/11.9 mi)

Day 4 Limogne-en-Quercy to Mas de Vers (21.5 km/13.4 mi)

Day 5 Mas de Vers to Cahors (17 km/10.6 mi)

Four-day itinerary for the GR 65 (87.3 km/54.6 mi)

Day 1 Figeac to Le Verdier (24.3 km/15.2 mi)

Day 2 Le Verdier to Limogne-en-Quercy (24.5 km/15.3 mi)

Day 3 Limogne-en-Quercy to Mas de Vers (21.5 km/13.4 mi)

Day 4 Mas de Vers to Cahors (17 km/10.6 mi)

HIGHLIGHTS OF THE GR 65

Cajarc

If you choose to follow the traditional GR 65 path, I recommend allowing a couple of hours to explore Cajarc. A map of the town available from the Tourist Office, will guide you through the quaint side streets, past a twelfth-century home and its more modern thirteenth- and fourteenth-century neighbours.  

The seventeenth-century church, dedicated to Saint-Etienne, stands proudly on the square in the centre of town. If you look closely, you’ll notice much older stones at the base of the bell tower—all that remains of the original thirteenth-century church which was almost completely destroyed during the Wars of Religion.

Take a closer look around Cajarc and find a comprehensive list of accommodation.

Stock up on trail mix at the local markets

No matter which route you follow, you’ll find fresh food markets along the way. Some operate only during the summer months, so make the most of the plentiful seasonal produce and pack a picnic lunch for the day’s walk.

Figeac—Saturday morning

Cajarc—Saturday afternoon

Limogne-en-Quercy—Sunday morning

Varaire—Friday evening

Brengues—Thursday evening in July and August

Marcilhac-sur-Célé—Tuesday evening in July and August

Cabarets—Friday morning from May to October

Saint-Cirq-Lapopie—Wednesday evening in July and August

Vers—Thursday morning from May to September

Arcambal—Sunday morning

Cahors—Wednesday and Saturday mornings

Explore each stage in more depth:

Stage 1: Le-Puy-en-Velay to Aumont-Aubrac

Stage 2: Aumont-Aubrac to Figeac

Stage 3: Figeac to Cahors

Stage 4: Cahors to Eauze

Stage 5: Eauze to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

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