Stage 1: Le Puy-en-Velay to Aumont-Aubrac

(Published November 2015, last updated April 2025)

With rolling green hills, wind-swept plateaus and ancient stone chapels, this 88.5-kilometre (55.3-mile) section of the GR 65 Chemin de Saint-Jacques from Le Puy-en-Velay to Aumont-Aubrac delivers everything you could imagine a long-distance walk through quintessential French countryside will bring.

And although there are some challenging hills to climb and a gorge to cross in the first two days, the path takes a mostly gentle route along quiet country roads and well-maintained gravel paths, passing through tiny hamlets and villages consisting of little more than a handful of houses and farm buildings.

Looking back toward Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole

If you are not an experienced walker, this is the perfect walk to cut your teeth on. Many first-time walkers are concerned about becoming lost or injured far from town, but there will be lots of other walkers about to keep you company—or to come to your aid if you find yourself stranded along the way.

Whether you take four, five or six days to complete this stage, be sure to allow plenty of time—a full day if possible—to explore Le Puy-en-Velay and visit the many attractions the town has to offer.

If time allows during your visit to Saugues, I recommend spending an hour visiting the museum and climbing the tower for the fabulous views over the countryside.

And don’t forget to reward yourself in Aumont-Aubrac with dinner at the Michelin-starred restaurant, Cyril Attrazic!

Look inside the CHEMIN DE SAINT-JACQUES DU-PUY (PDF) guidebook

Where is the Chemin de Saint-Jacques in France?

Map of Stage 1: Le Puy-en-Velay to Aumont-Aubrac

A shady, flat section of forest on the otherwise steep descent between Rochegude and Pratclaux

Accommodation from Le Puy-en-Velay to Aumont-Aubrac

Accommodation on or very close to the path is available in the following towns.

0 km (0 mi) Le Puy-en-Velay

9.5 km (5.9 mi) Tallode

15.5 km (9.7 mi) Montbonnet

23 km (14.4 mi) Saint-Privat-d’Allier

26 km (16.3 mi) Rochegude

27.2 km (17 mi) Pratclaux

30 km (18.8 mi) Monistrol-d’Allier

36 km (22.5 mi) Roziers

42 km (26.3 mi) Saugues

49.5 km (30.9 mi) La Clauze

53.5 km (33.4 mi) Villeret-d’Apchier

56.5 km (35.3 mi) Chanaleilles (600m from the path)

57.5 km (35.9 mi) Chazeau

61.5 km (38.4 mi) Le Sauvage

69.9 km (43.7 mi) Les Faux (900m from the path)

71 km (44.4 mi) Le Rouget

74.5 km (46.6 mi) Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole

82 km (51.3 mi) Les Estrets

83.5 km (52.2 mi) Bigose

88.5 km (55.3 mi) Aumont-Aubrac

How to book accommodation in French

From Monistrol-d’Allier, the path takes a long and tiring (but not technically difficult) climb up the ridge. Not far from the top, you’ll reach this charming chapel—Chapelle la Madeleine—carved into the rock. The doors are locked, but you can peek inside through the window at the end.

Itineraries for Le Puy-en-Velay to Aumont-Aubrac

As you plan your walk, remember that there are no set stages and you are free to walk as far or as little each day as you wish. Guidebooks (mine included) are often organised around a list of villages or towns but there is no advantage or obligation to follow these suggestions if the distances do not suit you.

If your preference, or an injury, dictates that no more than ten kilometres (six miles) each day is best for you, listen to your intuition and plan accordingly. On the other hand, if you know you can comfortably walk 25 or more kilometres (15 miles) each day, plan a more strenuous schedule that meets your needs.

Because the first 35 kilometres (22 miles) from Le Puy-en-Velay to Montaure (just past Monistrol-d’Allier) include some strenuous climbing, I recommend starting with a slower pace and spreading this first stage over six days. This schedule allows plenty of time to loosen up your leg muscles and ease into a comfortable walking rhythm, to notice any hotspots on your feet and take precautionary measures before blisters form, and to make final adjustments to your backpack before tackling any longer days.

And from Chapelle la Madeleine, you’ll enjoy a fabulous view back down to Monistrol-d’Allier

Six-day itinerary for Le Puy-en-Velay to Aumont-Aubrac

Day 1: Le Puy-en-Velay to Montbonnet (15.5 km/9.7 mi)

Day 2: Montbonnet to Monistrol-d’Allier (14.5 km/9.1 mi)

Day 3: Monistrol-d’Allier to Saugues (12 km/7.5 mi)

Day 4: Saugues to Chazeau (15.5 km/9.7 mi)

Day 5: Chazeau to Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole (17 km/10.6 mi)

Day 6: Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole to Aumont-Aubrac (14 km/8.8 mi)

Looking back towards Villeret-d’Apchier

If you prefer to complete this section in four or five days…

Five-day itinerary for Le Puy-en-Velay to Aumont-Aubrac

Day 1 Le Puy-en-Velay to Montbonnet (15.5 km/9.7 mi).

Day 2 Montbonnet to Monistrol-d’Allier (14.5 km/9.1 mi).

Day 3 Monistrol-d’Allier to Villeret-dÁpchier (23.5 km/14.7 mi).

Day 4 Villeret-dÁpchier to Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole (21 km/13.1 mi).

Day 5 Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole to Aumont-Aubrac (14 km/8.8 mi).

Four-day itinerary for Le Puy-en-Velay to Aumont-Aubrac

Day 1 Le Puy-en-Velay to Saint-Privat-d’Allier (23 km/14.4 mi).

Day 2 Saint-Privat-d’Allier to Saugues (19 km/11.9 mi).

Day 3 Saugues to Le Sauvage (19.5 km/12.2 mi).

Day 4 Le Sauvage to Aumont-Aubrac (27 km/16.9 mi).

At lunch time, the café on the main street of Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole is a popular meeting spot for locals and walkers

The best time of year to walk from Le Puy-en-Velay to Aumont-Aubrac

Although most of the small hotels along this section are open throughout the year, many of the chambres d’hôtes and gîtes close from mid to late October, taking a well-earned break before reopening in late March or around Easter.

Winter on the higher elevations in this region is snowy. In some years these conditions extend into early May, and while a dusting of snow is a magical sight, walking in the snow carries a set of challenges beyond my experience. In some areas with few trees, trail markings are often on rocks and generally close to the ground, and may not be visible under a good dusting of snow.

If you choose to walk during the winter months, my advice is to make safety a priority and take any advice offered by accommodation hosts who will have a good idea of more dangerous parts of the path and possible ways to avoid them.

Leaving Le Sauvage (photo taken in June)

Soon after the snow clears and spring arrives, the pastures are covered in jonquils and daffodils (and capturing this is a high priority for my next visit!) and by early June the path is flanked with masses of wildflowers!

Summer temperatures can be quite high with the occasional 40-degree (Celsius) heatwave. In these conditions, carrying plenty of water and refilling your water bottle whenever you have the chance becomes a high priority. But July and August is also the time of year when you’ll find everything—such as the Puy de Lumières light show in Le Puy-en-Velay and the Beast of Gévaudan Museum and tower in Saugues—open.

In September, temperatures drop and the milder weather is perfect for walking. Although most of the wildflowers have disappeared, you will find a smattering of autumn colours punctuating the fields.

Leaving Le Sauvage (photo taken in September)

Do I need to pre-book accommodation?

When it comes to pre-booking accommodation, most walkers fall squarely into one of two camps—those who always do, and those who can’t imagine why locking in your overnight stops in advance would be a good idea. When walking, I definitely fall into the first group, but even if you prefer to wing it each day, I recommend pre-booking at least the first few nights on this section. After a few days, you’ll have a good feel for how busy the path is and whether you need to book several days ahead or can wait until the morning before.

If there is a particular hotel, chambre d’hôte or gîte that you’d like to stay at, such as the very popular Le Sauvage, I do recommend booking a bed as early as possible.

In May and early June, many French walkers take advantage of a string of public holidays to make their vacation leave go further and head out for a week-long walk. In 2025, these days fall on 1 May (Labour Day), 8 May (Victory in Europe Day), 29 May (Ascension Day) and 9 June (Whit Monday) and accommodation can be tight during these weeks.

A group of walkers reaches La Clauze, a tiny village with two gîtes which can accommodate 27 guests between them.

Mid-June through until late August is usually a quieter period and there is less demand for accommodation. Then, when school holidays finish in early September, many French grandparents are relieved of child-minding duties and once again, the chemin sees an increase in the number of older walkers seeking beds for the night.

Of course, many walkers (braver than me!) set out from Le Puy-en-Velay with no plan and do find a bed each night. The more flexible you are with types of accommodation (the occasional more expensive hotel or more basic bunk bed dormitory) and distances walked (perhaps a longer or shorter day than you would prefer), the better your chances of finding a bed.

If you enjoy participating in the communal dinner each night, booking your room and dinner the day before gives your host time to prepare and is a courtesy that is always appreciated. And if you have any special dietary considerations, a few days’ notice may be the difference between a delightful meal and settling for trail mix.

A lone walker carries everything he needs each day (somewhere between Pratclaux and Monistrol-d’Allier).

Luggage transfers

The Chemin de Saint-Jacques du-Puy is blessed with several companies who will transport your luggage on to your next destination. Make sure your bags meet all weight and size requirements, are clearly labelled and are in the foyer by 8am each morning. Your bag will be delivered to your accommodation (according to your booking instructions) later that day.

Be aware that transfer companies generally do not collect and deliver to accommodation that does not provide a secure place to leave luggage. If you book accommodation through a hotel booking website that provides access remotely via a code, you may need to make arrangements to have your bags delivered elsewhere.

Each of these companies has slightly different prices, weight limitations, and start and end of season dates. Check each one for the service that suits you best.

La Malle Postale (Le Puy-en-Velay to Aire-sur-l’Adour)

Transport du Levant (Le Puy-en-Velay to Figeac)

Transport Lample (Le Puy-en-Velay to Moissac)

Many walkers have their luggage transferred and walk with just a day pack

Transport options to and from Le Puy-en-Velay

Train line 09 Le-Puy—Firminy—St-Étienne—Lyon connects Le Puy-en-Velay to Lyon (with a change at Saint-Étienne-Châteaucreux).

Train line 26 Clermont-Ferrand—Langeac—Le Puy-en-Velay connects Le Puy-en-Velay to Clermont-Ferrand.

Both Lyon and Clermont-Ferrand have daily train connections from Paris.

Transport options along the Chemin de Saint-Jacques

The first 200 kilometres (125 miles) of the Chemin de Saint-Jacques is well supported by the Compostel’Bus which runs between Le Puy-en-Velay and Conques each morning and makes the return journey each afternoon. Seats fill fast in very hot or rainy weather and I recommend booking a seat as early as possible.

Other stops in this section include Montbonnet, Saint-Privat-d’Allier, Monistrol-d’Allier, Saugues, Villeret-d’Apchier, Chanaleilles, La Chapelle-Saint-Roch (3 kms beyond le Sauvage), La Roche, Les Faux, Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole and Aumont-Aubrac.

Further along, the bus stops at Les Quatre Chemins, Nasbinals, Aubrac, Saint-Chély-d’Aubrac, Saint-Côme-d’Olt, Espalion, Estaing, Golinhac, Espeyrac and Sénergues.

Transport options to and from Aumont-Aubrac

Train line Béziers—Millau—Clermont-Ferrand connects Aumont-Aubrac to Clermont-Ferrand, Millau and Béziers.

Lozère bus line 283 connects Aumont-Aubrac to Clermont-Ferrand, Saint-Chély-d’Apchier, Marvejols and Mende.

Find many more practical tips on preparation, packing, choosing a guidebook and avoiding blisters.

A refuge in the hamlet of La Clauze is typical of stone buildings in this area. On this visit, it was firmly locked, but in 2022 the doors were wide open and the table set with freshly baked cakes and urns of hot water and coffee.

Look inside the CHEMIN DE SAINT-JACQUES DU-PUY (PDF) guidebook

HIGHLIGHTS OF STAGE 1: LE PUY-EN-VELAY to AUMONT-AUBRAC

Rocher Saint-Michel, Statue Notre-Dame de France and Cathedrale Notre-Dame dominate the skyline of Le Puy-en-Velay

Le Puy-en-Velay

Take a day before you start walking to explore Le Puy-en-Velay. There are many charming corners to discover, from the twelfth century Cathédrale Notre-Dame du Puy with its adjoining cloister, Statue Notre-Dame de France built from the metal of Russian cannons captured during the Crimean War to a tiny chapel which has stood high on top of Rocher Saint-Michel d’Aiguilhe since 961 CE.

Saturday morning is market day in the heart of this historic town, and is the perfect opportunity to gather some trail mix—locally-grown dried or fresh fruits, nuts, olives and perhaps some homemade sausage.

The Saturday morning market in Place du Plot offers a dazzling array of fresh produce

Le Puy-en-Velay has been catering to travellers along the Chemin de Saint-Jacques since the tenth century, when Bishop Gothescale returned from the first recorded pilgrimage. Today, walkers are well looked after by Les Amis de Saint-Jacques (Friends of Saint-Jacques) who host a gathering each afternoon in the Camino Café. Here, you’ll meet other walkers preparing to set out, share a glass of Verveine (the local aperitif) and have all your last-minute questions answered.

Take a closer look around Le Puy-en-Velay and find a comprehensive list of accommodation and transport options.

Chapelle Saint-Roch, near Montbonnet

Saint-Roch—patron saint of dogs and pilgrims

A mile or so before reaching the village of Montbonnet, the Chemin de Saint-Jacques passes a small chapel. Dating from the tenth century, the chapel is dedicated to Saint-Roch, a doctor from Montpelier who contracted the plague on a pilgrimage to Rome.

Legend tells us that after retreating to the forest to die, Roch was befriended by a dog who fed him from his owner’s table. Roch recovered and returned to Montpelier. There, he was arrested as a spy and died in prison five years later.

Roch became the patron saint of pilgrims—and dogs—and this is the first of many Chapelle Saint-Rochs that you will pass along the Chemin de Saint-Jacques.

If you are still feeling energetic when you reach Montbonnet, there are wonderful views of the village from the point de vue a short distance before the village

Montbonnet

For many people, the first major decision of the walk along the Chemin de Saint-Jacques is choosing whether to spend the first night in Montbonnet (15.5 km/9.7 mi) or Saint-Privat-d’Allier (23 km/14.4 mi). One seems a little too far, the other not quite far enough.

The first time I walked (with my first night pre-booked in Saint-Privat-d’Allier) I reached Montbonnet by lunch time, still feeling fresh, and was glad I had chosen to push on. But, by the time I dragged my weary feet into Saint-Privat-d’Allier, I was not so sure I’d made the right decision.

Having now done it both ways, I recommend stopping the first night in Montbonnet. The shorter day of walking allows you plenty of time to attend the 7 am Pilgrims’ Mass in Le Puy-en-Velay, then enjoy a leisurely breakfast before starting your walk.

The perfect path through a glorious landscape on a perfect day for walking (between Montbonnet and Saint-Privat-d’Allier)

When you arrive in Montbonnet, there is nothing to do except rest your feet and enjoy a cold drink or two in the company of your fellow walkers. (The village consists of one chambre d’hôte, three gîtes, one café and a handful of houses—there is not even a church to distract you!)

In 2022, I stayed at La Première Étape where our host Annie provided a fabulous meal and plenty of tips for the following day, including an alternative route to avoid the steep descent beyond Rochegude and the best preventative blister cream (NOK) available from the pharmacy in Saugues.

Arriving in Saint-Privat-d’Allier

Saint-Privat-d’Allier

When you arrive in Saint-Privat-d’Allier, follow the sign up the hill to the church, parts of which date from the twelfth century. There several cafés along the main road but the park beside the church offers expansive views of the town and a quiet spot to rest.

Take a closer look around Saint-Privat-d’Allier and find a comprehensive list of accommodation.

A wooden sculpture in Saint-Privat-d’Allier depicts the ferocious Beast of Gévaudan

Saugues

Between 1764 and 1767, villagers and farmers living within a fifty-kilometre radius of Saugues were terrorised by an enormous wolf—the size of a cow—which roamed the countryside, killing and eating over 100 women and children. Such was the anguish and despair among the villagers, that the king sent his best hunters to slay the creature, but it was a local farmer—Jean Chastel—who finally brought the carnage to an end, killing the beast at Mont Mouchet, not far from Saugues.

As you approach Saugues, the path passes these unusual sculptures with a view of the village below

Musée fantastique de la Bête du Gévaudan, located in the middle of town, provides many more gory details of this story. The museum is open every day in July and August, but afternoons only in late June and early September.

Located on the same street as the museum is Tour des Anglais which is all that remains of a château, destroyed in September 1788, when a fire raged through the centre of town. The climb to the top of this twelfth-century tower takes you past a variety of temporary exhibitions to a platform offering spectacular views of the surrounding countryside.

Domaine le Sauvage

Le Sauvage

One of the most popular stops along the Chemin de Saint-Jacques is the forty-bed gîte at Le Sauvage. If you are hoping to spend a night here, I recommend booking well ahead.

The building was once part of a complex which included a hostel and small church dedicated to serving sick and poor pilgrims. Farmland around the hostel was used to graze cattle and grow crops which provided a constant supply of food for the pilgrims. This principal continues today with all food served being sourced from the surrounding farms.

Learn more about Le Sauvage.

Fontaine de l’Oratoire Saint-Roch

One hour after leaving Le Sauvage, close to the site of a thirteenth-century hostel, the GR 65 passes a small spring—Fontaine de l’Oratoire Saint-Roch. It is said that the water flowing from here is blessed, and pilgrims have been stopping to quench their thirst and fill their water bottles for almost one thousand years.

A short distance further along you’ll reach another Chapelle Saint-Roch. The original chapel was destroyed in a fierce storm in 1897, and the current church was completed in 1900.

Although this section of the Chemin de Saint-Jacques is much quieter today, it is easy to imagine a time when the hostel, fountain and chapel were busy meeting places for hundreds of pilgrims grateful for a bed, some food—and a draught of blessed water to drink and to tend their tired and battered feet.

L’église de Saint-Etienne in Aumont-Aubrac

Aumont-Aubrac

If you plan to complete your journey along the Chemin de Saint-Jacques in stages over several years, good train and bus connections out of Aumont-Aubrac make it an ideal place to finish this stage of your walk.

Aumont-Aubrac was founded in the early eleventh century, growing around a priory founded by Benedictine monks. The imposing church of Saint-Etienne dates from the twelfth century, although it was restored in 1994 and looks quite modern. In the centre of town, you’ll find several cafés, busy with locals and other walkers.

Before you leave, reward yourself with dinner at the Michelin-starred restaurant, Cyril Attrazic, attached to Hôtel Chez Camillou. Since I last ate here, the restaurant has earned a second star and prices have risen accordingly. As you will no doubt realise after a few days of walking, food throughout France is exceptionally good, whether it’s served in a gîte or a five-star hotel, but a meal here at Cyril Attrazic will set the bar high for the rest of your visit. (Check the website for the full menu and opening hours.)