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Aubrac (Chemin de Saint-Jacques)

By Melinda Lusmore

Aubrac, GR 65, Chemin de Saint-Jacques, France

The view of the church tower surrounded by ancient stone houses in the tiny village of Aubrac never fails to set my heart aflutter! It’s the same view that has greeted pilgrims and long-distance walkers for the last 900 years.

But there is more to Aubrac than historic charm – you’ll also find good food and a choice of places to stop for the night.

(Published August 2013, last updated April 2022)

The story of the pilgrim Adalard

In 1120, the pilgrim Adalard was crossing the vast Aubrac plains as he made his way to Santiago from Le Puy-en-Velay. In the forest, near where the village of Aubrac now stands, he was attacked by bandits. He survived, unharmed, and vowed to build a monastery where future pilgrims could find shelter.

Path leading up to medieval stone buildings of the village

Approaching the village of Aubrac

A few years later Adalard returned and between 1120 and 1122 he built the monastery, the church and a hospital where sick pilgrims could be treated. During its busiest times, the monastery dispensed 5,000 bread rolls and sheltered 500 pilgrims each day!

Twelfth century church with brick arches and a bell tower

Twelfth-century church dedicated to Notre-Dame des Pauvres (our Lady of the Poor)

The monastery was destroyed during the French Revolution but the church, Notre-Dame des Pauvres, has survived. The interior features contemporary murals, by local artist Hervé Vernhes, depicting the life of Adalard.

Gîte La Tour des Anglais

La Tour des Anglais

La Tour des Anglais

Next to the church is la Tour des Anglais, built as a fortification during the Hundred Years War with the English in the fourteenth century. It is now a gîte and still shelters pilgrims each night (no, there is no elevator). It is named, not after the English, but after the vagabonds who roamed the country after the Hundred Years War and were referred to, derogatorily, as les anglais.

Sculpture of Lou Cantales by Roland Delsol

Sculpture of Lou Cantales by Roland Delsol in the village square

Summer Transhumance from Aubrac to Saint-Côme-d’Olt

Transhumance – the annual migration of cattle to summer pastures – begins here on the Sunday closest to 25 May. The cattle are decorated with flowers and flags and the village erupts in folk music and dancing in traditional costumes.

The procession takes a few days to travel from Aubrac to Saint-Côme-d’Olt, following the road and not the GR 65 path.

Whether you wish to see it or avoid it, the Transhumance is a major event on the local calendar and accommodation will need to be booked up to a year in advance if your visit coincides with the festivities.

The GR 65 Chemin de Saint-Jacques passing through green rolling hills and gentle pastures

Looking back over the path into Aubrac

A pilgrim sits outside Café Chez Germaine, Aubrac

Café Chez Germaine

FAST FACTS

Which long-distance walk in France visits Aubrac?

Chemin de Saint-Jacques du-Puy (Stage 2: Aumont-Aubrac to Figeac)

Where is Aubrac, France?   Find it on Google maps

Aubrac is located 124 kilometres (77.5 miles) along the Chemin de Saint-Jacques. If you are following my suggested itinerary, you’ll arrive in the village in time for lunch on the seventh day of walking from Le Puy-en-Velay.

Click through to find my suggested itinerary for all five stages of the walk

If you prefer to set your own agenda, I share the steps I take to plan my itinerary on any long-distance walk (using the Chemin de Stevenson as a case study).

The Compostel’Bus service runs every morning, connecting Aubrac with villages along the path between Le Puy-en-Velay and Conques and making the return journey each afternoon. Other stops include Montbonnet, Saint-Privat-d’Allier, Monistrol-d’Allier, Saugues, Villeret-d’Apchier, La Roche, Les Faux, Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole, Aumont-Aubrac, Nasbinals, Saint-Chély-d’Aubrac, Saint-Côme-d’Olt, Espalion, Estaing, Golinhac, Espeyrac and Sénergues.

Tourist Office in Aubrac 

You’ll find the Tourist Office in Maison de l’Aubrac near the Botanic Garden. Opening hours are listed here. 

Accommodation in Aubrac  

Hotel
La Dômerie 

Chambres d’Hôtes
La Colonie 

L’Estive d’Aubrac  

Gîtes
Le Royal Aubrac
La Tour des Anglais   

How to book accommodation in French

Where to eat in Aubrac 

Aubrac is thought to be the birthplace of aligot, a traditional dish made of potatoes and cheese – the ultimate comfort food. It features in restaurants all through this region so be sure to try it while you are here.

There are several cafés and restaurants in Aubrac, including the Tourist Office where you can pick up regional produce for a delicious picnic lunch. If you’ve worked up a hearty pilgrim’s appetite, I thoroughly recommend Chez Germaine where you’ll find the best onion soup and a mouth-watering selection of berry tarts included on the menu.   

Practical tips for long-distance walking—preparation, packing and avoiding blisters

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About The Author – Melinda Lusmore

Hi! I’m Melinda, the walker behind I Love Walking in France. Nothing makes me happier than wandering through the picturesque villages and glorious countryside in rural France, and helping others to do the same. Whether you’re looking for practical tips or a little inspiration for your own long-distance walk, you’ll find everything you need right here. This website contains no sponsored posts or affiliate links. If I recommend a product, service or somewhere to stay, it’s because I’ve used it, loved it—and I think you will too!

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Are you dreaming of a walk through the picturesque villages and glorious countryside of rural France and don’t know where to start?

Download your FREE guide now!

3 Steps to the Perfect Long-distance Walk

Your details stay here - no walking EVER! It's a promise!

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