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Stage 2: Aumont-Aubrac to Figeac (Chemin de Saint-Jacques)

By Melinda Lusmore

Approaching Aubrac, GR 65, Chemin de Saint-Jacques, France

This 163-kilometre (102-mile) section of the Chemin de Saint-Jacques from Aumont-Aubrac to Figeac is perhaps my favourite, featuring many highlights and special moments along the way.

And while some find the vast open plains of the Aubrac to be empty and sometimes monotonous, I find them exhilarating and beautiful—enormous spaces filled with possibilities and room to think.

I’ve visited in the summer when the hills were ablaze with wild flowers and walked in the autumn when the air was clear and crisp.

I’ve admired photos of the hills and villages blanketed in snow—not good for walking but mesmerizingly beautiful!

(Published June 2013, last updated April 2022)

Yellow wildflowers scattered across green rolling hills, summer in the Aubrac

This section of the Chemin de Saint-Jacques du-Puy—which passes through Saint-Côme-d’Olt, Estaing and Conques (three of France’s most beautiful villages) and the tiny, historic village of Aubrac—was my introduction to long-distance walking and was such a memorable experience that I’ve returned many times. 

Two walkers on the path between Nasbinals and Aubrac

Where is the Chemin de Saint-Jacques in France?

Chemin de Saint-Jacques map

Map of the Chemin de Saint-Jacques from Aumont-Aubrac to Figeac

Map of the path from Aumont-Aubrac to Figeac, France

Highlights of Stage 2: Aumont-Aubrac to Figeac

Estaing, GR 65, Chemin de Saint-Jacques, France

Château d’Estaing towering over the village of Estaing

Visit three of France’s most beautiful villages

Between Le Puy-en-Velay and Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, the Chemin de Saint-Jacques passes through eleven of France’s ‘most beautiful villages’. The first three can be found along this section between Aumont-Aubrac and Figeac –

Saint-Côme-d’Olt—to visit all the historic monuments in this charming village you’ll need to leave the GR 65 path and wander the back streets. Pick up a map from the Tourist Office to ensure you see them all.

Estaing—a stunningly beautiful village dominated by an eleventh-century château, nestled on the banks of the River Lot. I recommend taking the afternoon off walking and exploring the maze of picturesque alleys.

Conques—an important stop on the pilgrims’ trail since the relics of the 13-year-old martyr Sainte-Foy were brought to the village in 866 AD. Vespers are held in the abbey church to welcome pilgrims each night at 6.30 pm and after the service, everyone gathers outside to hear the priest tell the story of Sainte-Foy and Saint-Matthew depicted in the twelfth-century tympanum above the entrance.

Church doors, Saint-Côme-d'Olt, GR 65, Chemin de Saint-Jacques, France

Walkers arriving at l’église Saint-Côme et Saint-Damien, Saint-Côme-d’Olt

(What makes a village ‘most beautiful’? To qualify as one of France’s ‘most beautiful villages’, or plus beaux villages, a strict set of criteria must be met. This includes a rural setting, a population of less than two thousand and at least two historical monuments or sites that the town commits to protecting and preserving.)

Visit Aubrac

There’s something about the cluster of ancient stone houses nestled in a dip of the rolling green hills (pictured at the top of this post) that always has me longing to strap on my boots and get walking again. I can still taste the French onion soup we enjoyed for lunch in Chez Germain and see the mouth-watering array of tarts laid out for dessert.

The picturesque village of Aubrac was built in the twelfth century by the pilgrim Adalard, who had been attacked by bandits when he passed through in 1120. He returned and built a monastery, church and hospital where up to 500 pilgrims could be fed and cared for each night.

Café Chez Germaine, Aubrac, GR 65, Chemin de Saint-Jacques, France

Café Chez Germaine

Transhumance

If your walk along the Chemin de Saint-Jacques brings you to the Aubrac region in late May, you’ll need to book your accommodation well in advance. On the Sunday closest to 25 May, the Transhumance—the annual migration of cattle to summer pastures—begins. Cattle are decorated with flowers and flags before the procession sets off along the road (not the GR 65) to Saint-Côme-d’Olt.

Rooms are booked many months, sometimes a year, in advance—be prepared to detour well off the path if you don’t have a bed secured.

Château Fort de Calmont d'Olt, Espalion, GR 65, Chemin de Saint-Jacques, France

Catapult demonstration at Château Fort de Calmont d’Olt

Explore the ruins of a fortified castle

Perched on a hill overlooking Espalion is Château Fort de Calmont d’Olt—a fortified castle dating from the Middle Ages. Guided tours are available or you can explore on your own.

I’ll admit a visit to the château required climbing one hill too many as I walked the Chemin de Saint-Jacques but I had visited the previous year. If you’d like to see it, take a taxi up the hill from Espalion and continue your walk from the château (or perhaps ask the driver to return in an hour or two and take you on to Bessuéjouls).

Saint Pierre, Bessuéjols, , GR65, Chemin de Saint-Jacques, France

L’église Saint-Pierre in Bessuéjouls

Visit Église Saint-Pierre in Bessuéjouls

If you spend the morning at Château Fort de Calmont d’Olt, you may be tempted to take the taxi straight on to the next village of Estaing.

Please don’t, as you’ll miss the hamlet of Bessuéjouls and the beautiful church dedicated to Saint-Pierre.

Although the church was renovated in the sixteenth century, the adjoining twelfth-century bell tower was left intact. Stairs at the rear of the church will take you up to the ancient chapel honouring Saint-Michel.

Saint-Sauveur, Figeac, GR 65, Chemin de Saint-Jacques, France

The abbey church of Saint-Sauveur, Figeac

Take a break in Figeac

Classified a ville d’art et d’histoire, Figeac is a beautiful town of almost 10,000 people spanning the River Lot. Filled with medieval stone and timbered houses, the backstreets and crooked alleys are a delight to wander through.

Figeac was the birthplace of Jean-François Champollion, the nineteenth-century French scholar who spent more than a decade deciphering the hieroglyphics of the Rosetta Stone. His home is now a museum where you can explore the history of writing.

If you have been walking since Le Puy-en-Velay and have not yet stopped for a rest day, Figeac is the perfect place to take a break. The town boasts a full range of services—dozens of cafés, patisseries, chocolaterie as well as the ever-useful banks, doctors, dentists and ATMs!

Chateau, Rocamadour, GR46 - GR652, France

Chateau in Rocamadour

Within an hour’s drive from Figeac, you can visit the village of Rocamadour whose ancient buildings cling to the side of the cliff above the River Lot.

Pink roses, red bricks, Collonges-la-Rouge, GR480, France

Pink roses against the red brick houses of Collonges-la-Rouge

Venture north for a further one-hour drive and stop to explore one of six of France’s ‘most beautiful villages’. My pick would be Collonges-la-Rouge but you can discover them all here.  

For something completely different, visit the underground lakes and caves, 103 metres below the surface at Gouffre de Padirac. 

Saturday morning market, Figeac, GR 65, Chemin de Saint-Jacques, France

Saturday morning market in Figeac

Stock up on trail mix at the local markets

Several villages along the way host a fresh food market once or twice a week providing the perfect opportunity to pack restock your trail mix supplies or pack a picnic lunch.

Aumont-Aubrac—Friday morning

Saint-Chély-d’Aubrac—Wednesday morning all year, Thursday evening in summer

Saint-Côme-d’Olt—Sunday morning

Espalion—Friday morning all year, the first and third Wednesday evenings of July and August

Estaing—Friday evening in July and August

Conques—Thursday evenings in late July and August

Decazeville—Tuesday and Friday mornings

Figeac—Saturday morning

Espeyrac, GR 65, Aumont-Aubrac to Figeac

Quaint alley in Espeyrac

Dine at a Michelin-starred restaurant—or two!

This section of the Chemin de Saint-Jacques between Aumont-Aubrac and Figeac is blessed with two Michelin-starred restaurants. I’d like to tell you I’ve eaten at both (maybe I will one day) but I can tell you that the meal I enjoyed at Cyril Attrazic (attached to Hôtel Chez Camillou) in Aumont-Aubrac was one of the most memorable meals I’ve had anywhere in France. (Prices range from €48 to €118 depending on whether you visit for lunch or dinner. Our dinner included five courses and wine for around €65 per head.)

Further along the trail at Conques, Hervé Busset serves lunch and dinner every night except Monday at le Moulin de Camblong. (Prices range from €40 to €110. Check the website for the full menu and opening hours of both restaurants.)

Aumont-Aubrac to Figeac, GR 65 variante, Chemin de Saint-Jacques, France

Chemin de Saint-Jacques itinerary from Aumont-Aubrac to Figeac

Many walkers complete this section from Aumont-Aubrac to Figeac in eight days. I prefer to make space in my schedule for a couple of free afternoons to explore the ‘most beautiful villages’ of Estaing and Conques. Both villages are impossibly gorgeous and even if you do nothing more than find a shady table in a café and put your feet up for the afternoon, these two slower days will provide a welcome chance to restore your energy.

Consult your TopoGuide as you start out each morning—there are several instances where a detour along a road or a variante of the GR 65 will help you shorten your daily walk (or avoid a hill) without compromising your sense of achievement at the end of the day.

Day 1 Aumont-Aubrac to Montgros (23.5 km/14.7 mi)

Day 2 Montgros to Saint-Chély-d’Aubrac (19.5 km/12.2 mi)

Day 3 Saint-Chély-d’Aubrac to Espalion (24.5 km/15.3 mi)

Day 4 Espalion to Estaing (12 km/7.5 mi)

Day 5 Estaing to Espeyrac (23 km/14.4 mi)

Day 6 Espeyrac to Conques (12.5 km/7.8 mi)

Day 7 Conques to Noailhac (7 km/4.4 mi)

Day 8 Noailhac to Livinhac-le-Haut (15.5 km/9.7 mi)

Day 9 Livinhac-le-Haut to Figeac (25.5 km/15.9 mi)

La Tour des Chapelains, Saint-Chély-d'Aubrac, Aumont-Aubrac to Figeac

Accommodation along the Chemin de Saint-Jacques from Aumont-Aubrac to Figeac

Accommodation is available in the following villages (click on each link for a comprehensive list).

Distances are given from the starting point of Le Puy-en-Velay.

(H—hotel; C—chambre d’hôte; G—gîte; T—camping)

88.5 km         (55.3 mi)       Aumont-Aubrac (H,C,G,T)

93 km            (58.1 mi)       La Chaze-de-Peyre (G)

95 km            (59.4 mi)       Lasbros (G)

99 km            (61.9 mi)       Les Quatre Chemins (G)

104.5 km       (65.3 mi)       Finieyrols (G)

110.5 km       (69.1 mi)       + 400 metre detour to La Grange des Enfants (C )

112 km          (70 mi)          Montgros (H/G,C)

115 km          (71.9 mi)       Nasbinals (H,C,G,T)

124 km          (77.5 mi)       Aubrac (H,C,G)

131.5 km       (82.2 mi)       Saint-Chély-d’Aubrac (H,C,G,T)

138.5 km       (86.6 mi)       Lestrade (G)

148 km          (92.5 mi)       Saint-Côme-d’Olt (C,G,T)

156 km          (97.5 mi)       Espalion (H,C,G,T)

159 km          (99.4 mi)       Bessuéjouls (C )

165 km          (103.1  mi)    Verrieres (C )

168 km          (105 mi)        Estaing (H,C,G,T)

176 km          (110 mi)        + 150 metre detour to Fonteilles (G,T) 

180.5 km       (112.8 mi)     Massip (G) 

182.5 km       (114.1 mi)     Golinhac (H,C,G,T)

187.5 km       (117.2 mi)     Campagnac (C )

191 km          (119.4 mi)     Espeyrac (H,G)

194.5 km       (121.6 mi)     Sénergues (G)

203.5 km       (127.2 mi)     Conques (H,C,G,T)

210.5 km       (131.6 mi)     Noailhac (C,G)

222 km          (138.8 mi)     Decazeville (H,C,G)

226 km          (141.3 mi)     Livinhac-le-Haut (C,G,T)

232 km          (145 mi)        Montredon (C,G)

235.5 km       (147.2 mi)     Lacoste (C )

239 km          (149.4 mi)     Terly (G) 

243.5 km       (152.2 mi)     Saint-Jean-Mirabel (G) 

251.5 km       (157.2 mi)     Figeac (H,C,G,T)

How to book accommodation in French

Compost’l Bus 

This section of the Chemin de Saint-Jacques is well supported with a daily bus service which runs between Le Puy-en-Velay and Conques should you need a break from walking.

Stops in this section include Aumont-Aubrac, Nasbinals, Aubrac, Saint-Chély-d’Aubrac, Saint-Côme-d’Olt, Espalion, Estaing, Golinhac, Espeyrac and Sénergues.

Between Le Puy-en-Velay and Aumont-Aubrac, the bus stops at Montbonnet, Saint-Privat-d’Allier, Monistrol-d’Allier, Saugues, Villeret-d’Apchier, La Roche, Les Faux and Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole.

Explore each stage in more depth –

Stage 1: Le Puy-en-Velay to Aumont-Aubrac  

Stage 2: Aumont-Aubrac to Figeac

Stage 3: Figeac to Cahors  

Stage 4: Cahors to Eauze  

Stage 5: Eauze to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port  

Ready to plan your walk along the Chemin de Saint-Jacques du-Puy?

Look inside Chemin de Saint-Jacques

 

About The Author – Melinda Lusmore

Hi! I’m Melinda, the walker behind I Love Walking in France. Nothing makes me happier than wandering through the picturesque villages and glorious countryside in rural France, and helping others to do the same. Whether you’re looking for practical tips or a little inspiration for your own long-distance walk, you’ll find everything you need right here. This website contains no sponsored posts or affiliate links. If I recommend a product, service or somewhere to stay, it’s because I’ve used it, loved it—and I think you will too!

Comments

  1. [email protected] says

    July 13, 2013 at 11:03 am

    I understand your addiction to walking in France. Every year as I watch the Tour de France I am reminded how beautiful the French countryside is. Everything is so neat and clean too. They really have a beautiful country.

    • Melinda says

      July 13, 2013 at 1:31 pm

      I couldn’t agree more Eduardo. The Tour de France always has me keen to go back.

  2. Michael says

    June 28, 2013 at 11:31 pm

    Beautiful scenery, but I would be enthralled by the history and the people.

    • Melinda says

      June 29, 2013 at 2:23 pm

      Me too Michael. The history is amazing and the people, both locals and fellow walkers, have wonderful stories to tell.

  3. SantaCruz PhotoTours (@SCPhotoTours) says

    June 22, 2013 at 7:47 pm

    sounds dreamy!

    • Melinda says

      June 22, 2013 at 7:52 pm

      I think you’d love it Santa Cruz Photo Tours

Trackbacks

  1. Tips on Walking Holidays in France says:
    August 6, 2015 at 11:06 am

    […] the Chemin de Saint-Jacques du-Puy, walked by pilgrims for the past one thousand years on the way to the Camino de Santiago in […]

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