(Published December 2013, last updated April 2023)
Legend has it that, following his victory over the Visigoths at the Battle of Vouillé in the sixth century, the Catholic King Clovis I had a vision—to build a monastery for a thousand monks, on the land where the Tarn and Garonne Rivers meet in southern France.
Although this story has been largely discredited, Abbaye de Saint-Pierre, once the heart of a large monastery complex in the centre of Moissac, is a magnificent example of Romanesque architecture and has been a major stop for pilgrims along the Chemin de Saint-Jacques since the tenth century.
War memorial in Moissac
Many walkers travelling along the Chemin de Saint-Jacques take a rest day in Cahors. If you are following my suggested itinerary, you’ll arrive in Moissac three days later—much too soon to be considering another rest day! But if you are ready for a break, Moissac is an ideal choice.
When you arrive in town, call into the Tourist Office which is located next to the abbey. Ask for a map of the town (Plan de Moissac), which also shows two walking circuits around Moissac, and will be useful if you have time for some wider exploring.
No matter how much time you have available, make sure you visit the abbey and cloister, which are open to the public every day (hours vary depending on the season). There is a lot to see here so, if possible, allow yourself an hour or two to explore. Guided visits (en français) or audio guides (in many languages) are also available to give you a deeper understanding of the site’s architecture and carvings.
Construction of the abbey has been attributed to Clovis II, who ruled in the middle of the seventh century. The southern door is surrounded by elaborate carvings, including a tympanum depicting the Apocalypse, which was carved between 1115 and 1130.
Decorative painting of the ceiling in the abbey church
Inside, the walls are painted in shades of yellow, terracotta and blue and several small chapels display beautifully painted statues and sculptures of Jesus, the saints and disciples.
Over the centuries, the church has been restored and enlarged several times—as evidenced by the mixture of architectural styles and stone and brick work on the façade.
The adjoining cloister was completed in 1100 and offers an oasis of calm—despite the many visitors (and the constant stream of wedding parties on a Saturday afternoon!).
Seventy-six capitals, mounted on alternating single and double columns, line the cloister and depict the lives of saints and martyrs as well as stories from the Old and New Testaments. These delicate, and sometimes macabre, carvings are believed to be the oldest surviving capitals in the world.
If you have time to explore the town a little more, follow the road beyond the railway to the top of the hill (purple Circuit 3 on Plan de Moissac). Here you’ll find the Carmelite Convent, which shelters up to eighty walkers each night and offers spectacular views from the grounds over the rooftops of Moissac.
Canal bridge over the Garonne River
If you have an hour to spare, a short walk (following the orange Circuit 2 on Plan de Moissac) will take you along the Canal lateral à la Garonne, which cuts through the centre of town and forms a bridge over the Garonne River as it heads south-east towards Toulouse.
From Moissac, the Chemin de Saint-Jacques follows the Canal latéral à la Garonne for three kilometres (two miles) before climbing the ridge to the village of Boudou. The lookout offers spectacular views, extending over the Garonne River to the cultivated fields beyond.
Views from the lookout in Boudou
From Boudou, the path slowly descends the ridge, rejoining the canal at Malause but, if you prefer to avoid the climb (and reduce the walk by more than one hour), you can choose to follow the canal from Moissac as far as Pommevic.
Canal latéral à la Garonne between Moissac and Malause
Saturday morning market in Moissac
FAST FACTS
Which long-distance walk in France visits Moissac?
Chemin de Saint-Jacques du-Puy (Stage 4: Cahors to Eauze)
Where is Moissac, France? Find it on Google maps
Moissac is located 413.8 kilometres (258.6 miles) along the traditional Chemin de Saint-Jacques path.
My preferred route follows the variante from Figeac through the Célé valley which increases the distance to 434.7 kilometres (271.7 miles)—a twenty-five day walk from the starting point of Le Puy-en-Velay. Read more to learn all you need to know about both routes.
Click through to find my suggested itinerary for all five stages of the walk
If you prefer to set your own agenda, I share the steps I take to plan my itinerary on any long-distance walk (using the Chemin de Stevenson as a case study).
Daily train services run between Moissac and Cahors (via a connection in Toulouse).
Daily bus services (select department 82 Tarn-et-Garonne) connect Moissac with the nearby villages of Malause and Pommevic, which are located a little further along the Chemin de Saint-Jacques (in the direction of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port).
Tourist Office in Moissac
You’ll find the Tourist Office next to Abbaye Saint-Pierre. Opening hours are listed on the Tourist Office website.
Ask for a map of the town (Plan de Moissac), which also shows three walking circuits around Moissac, and will be useful if you have time for some wider exploring.
Accommodation in Moissac
There are plenty of accommodation options in Moissac and you’ll have no trouble finding something to suit your taste and budget.
Although it is not a common choice for those walking the Chemin de Saint-Jacques (there were no other walkers), I can personally recommend Le Moulin de Moissac which was one of the nicest and best value hotels I have stayed in. Our room offered beautiful views over the river and was a ten-minute walk from the abbey in the centre of town. Other options include:
Hotels
Le Moulin de Moissac
L’Armateur
Le Chapon Fin
Chambre d’hôtes
Ultreïa (five rooms, 10—15 people)
L’Arche de Moissac (five rooms, 10 people)
La Maison Lydia (four rooms, 10 people)
La Fuite en Égypte (three rooms, seven people)
La Halte aux Vergers (three rooms, seven people)
Chez Dan et Véro (three rooms, six people)
L’Auberge des Chemins (two rooms, five people)
Chez Provensal (two rooms, four people)
Le Jardin Suspendu (two rooms, four people)
Gîtes
L’Ancien Carmel (80 people)
Ultreïa (three rooms, 12 people)
Les Étoiles (five rooms, 13 people)
Maison Aliénor (four rooms, 13 people)
L’Auberge des Chemins (three rooms, nine people)
La Coquille (four rooms, eight people)
La Petite Lumière (two rooms, eight people)
Campground
Camping de l’Île du Bidounet
How to book accommodation in French
Where to eat in Moissac
From Place Roger Delthil in front of the abbey to Place des Récollets, Rue de la République is lined with cafés and restaurants and there are many more scattered beyond this central section of town. If you are staying at le Moulin de Moissac, I can thoroughly recommend the hotel restaurant which serves a variety of delicious dinners and superb desserts each night.
Moissac also boasts several supermarkets and specialty produce stores but if you are in town on a Saturday or Sunday morning, you’ll find the fresh food market well stocked with local produce—perfect for a picnic lunch.
Practical tips for long-distance walking—preparation, packing and avoiding blisters
Purchase the 2023 editions of the Chemin de Saint-Jacques (PDF) guidebooks
Purchase five guidebooks covering Le Puy-en-Velay to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port
Hello.
May I please have your permission to use the photograph of Daniel on the capital in the cloister in a paper I am writing about the origins of the bishop’s mitre? This may actually show a possible example of what the mitre grew out of, and it would certainly make my paper so much more intereseting.
Thank you very much.
Of course Nancy, you are welcome to use the photo. Melinda
I stayed at the Ultreia Moissac gite for two nights in September, 2013. It’s run by a lovely Irish couple (Rom & Aideen Bates) who have themselves walked le chemin de Saint-Jacques (GR65). It’s especially great for pilgrims coming in or leaving by train because its just 100 or so meters from the gare. Highly recommended. ( http://www.ultreiamoissac.com/ )
Sounds perfect Jerry. I am still collating all my information for this section of the Chemin de Saint-Jacques – I will make sure I include this gite. Thanks, Melinda.