Collonges-la-Rouge (Martel to Rocamadour)

(Published January 2013, last updated August 2024)

Founded by monks in 785 CE around a priory gifted by King Charlemagne to the Abbey in nearby Charroux, the breathtakingly beautiful village of Collonges-la-Rouge has grown and prospered throughout the centuries.

Although its fortunes have sometimes fluctuated—a thriving wine industry was decimated in the nineteenth century by an outbreak of phylloxera—it now enjoys a flourishing economy, supporting local artisans and welcoming visitors.

Collonges-la-Rouge is the original ‘most beautiful village in France’

Collonges-la-Rouge was the first of the Plus Beaux Villages de France—an association formed in 1981 by Charles Ceyrac, then mayor of the village.

At the time, many small towns were struggling economically and there was a danger that, as the younger folk left to find jobs elsewhere, preservation of the beautiful architecture and historical charm of these villages could not be maintained.

One year later, the mayors of sixty-six equally beautiful villages had joined him and the association was formed.

Today, 178 villages have met the criteria necessary to join the ranks of ‘most beautiful villages in France’. In addition to Collonges-la-Rouge, you’ll find eight others on this walk including Martel, Turenne, Curemonte, Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne, Autoire, Loubressac, Carennac and Rocamadour.

In 1912, a rail line opened, linking Turenne, Collonges-la-Rouge, Meyssac and Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne (what a blessing that would be for weary walkers today!) Unfortunately, the service suffered a series of accidents and derailments which resulted in several fatalities, and the last train passed through the village in 1932.

As you arrive in the village, call into the Tourist Office which has relocated to the old café servicing the station on the main road facing the street which leads down through the village. Ask for a map of the town which will guide you past several buildings of historical significance. 

As you wander down the main street, you’ll see the sixteenth century Maison de la Sirène whose front entrance is adorned with a sculpture of a mermaid. Inside is a museum displaying household items and a fascinating collection of photos from the past. (Check the website for tariffs and opening hours.)

If you can, I recommend waiting until after you have explored the village and are familiar with the sights before visiting the museum. To see the homes and monuments as they are now and to then recognise them as the background to daily life in earlier times, is a memorable and touching experience.

Continue down the street until you reach the round turrets of the fifteenth-century Hôtel de Friac. Turn left and pass through Porte Plate to reach the covered market hall which was built in the early seventeenth century.

On the far side, is the communal oven where villagers came to bake bread. Although the oven continued to be used until 1969, it is now only lit during the annual bread festival held on the first Sunday of August.

Facing the covered hall is Église Saint-Pierre. Much of the story of Collonges-la-Rouge can be told through the history of this beautiful Romanesque church which was built in the second half of the eleventh century.

The octagonal bell tower was added in the twelfth century and by 1140, the tympanum, carved from white limestone, greeted worshippers above the entrance.

At the end of the fourteenth century, during the Hundred Years War, the church was fortified and a second nave and bell tower were added. Two centuries later, during the Wars of Religion, the church was further fortified with the addition of the square watchman’s tower equipped with archery slits. Nonetheless, the area (under the rule of the Viscounts of Turenne) fell to the Protestants.

The villagers, who remained faithful to the Catholic church, dismantled the tympanum and hid it within the gable wall for protection. It was unearthed in 1923 and soon restored to its original position.

Behind Église Saint-Pierre, you’ll find the Chapelle des Pénitents Noirs, where local villagers—who were not allowed into the abbey—worshipped. When the brotherhood disbanded, the chapel fell into disrepair. In 1927, the Friends of Collonges Association began work to restore the roof, and contemporary stained-glass windows were added in 2016, flooding the interior with colour.

Continue your walk, following the lane behind the church around to the left. You’ll soon reach Château de Vassinhac, built in the fifteenth century for the Vassinhac family who ruled Collonges on behalf of the Viscounts of Turenne.

The château has been lovingly restored by the current owners and the work involved is easily appreciated in a photographic exhibition on display in the cellar. The interior is richly decorated in period furnishings, and is open to the public every day. (Check the website for tariffs and opening hours.) 

FAST FACTS

Which long-distance walk in France visits Collonges-la-Rouge?
Martel to Rocamadour

Where is Collonges-la-Rouge, France?  Find it on Google maps

Collonges-la-Rouge is 26.8 kilometres (16.8 miles) from the starting point of Martel.

The village is one of nine of France’s most beautiful villages which you will visit on this walk. The others are Martel, Turenne, Curemonte, Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne, Autoire, Loubressac, Carennac and Rocamadour.

If you are following my suggested itinerary for this eight-day walk, you’ll arrive in Collonges-la-Rouge late in the morning on the second day of the walk, after a short 8.8 kilometre (5.5 mile) walk from Turenne. You could grab a quick lunch and rush on to the next village of Curemonte, but I recommend staying here for the night—a more relaxed pace which allows plenty of time to relax and explore the village. 

If you prefer to set your own agenda, I share the steps I take to plan my itinerary on any long-distance walk (using the Chemin de Stevenson as a case study).

Corrèze bus ligne 223 connects Collonges-la-Rouge with Turenne (with stops at the village and the train station), Meyssac, Ligneyrac and Brive la Gaillarde. (From the link, click on Trouver votre ligne de car, and search for Brive la Gaillarde.) 

Tourist Office in Collonges-la-Rouge 

You’ll find the Tourist Office on the main road facing the street which leads down through the village. Opening hours are listed on the Tourist Office website.

A map of the village is available at the Tourist Office or can be downloaded from the Dordogne Valley website.

Accommodation in Collonges-la-Rouge  

Hotel
Le Relais de Saint-Jacques

Chambres d’Hôtes
Château de Vassinhac (3 rooms, 6 people)
La Fermette (2 rooms, 4 people)
Domaine de Peyrelimouse (2 rooms, 4 people) 
Le Jardin de la Raze (3 rooms, 6 people)

Campground
Campground la Valane

How to book accommodation in French

Where to eat in Collonges-la-Rouge 

There are more cafés in Collonges-la-Rouge that you could possibly hope to eat at in less than a week. They all look wonderful! Take your pick!   

Practical tips for long-distance walking—preparation, packing and avoiding blisters    

Purchase the 2024 edition of the Martel to Rocamadour (PDF) guidebook

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