Stage 5: Eauze to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (Chemin de Saint-Jacques)

(Published October 2017, last updated April 2024) 

As the GR 65 draws nearer to its final destination, meandering from Eauze to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, it passes through some of the most spectacular scenery to be found along the Chemin de Saint-Jacques du-Puy. The lush green slopes of the Pyrénéan foothills, the crisp white houses with deep red or green window shutters stand in sharp relief to clear blue skies and fluffy white clouds.

This is French countryside at its most picturesque—dotted with tiny villages and punctuated by church steeples. And although the view is of rolling hills and distant mountains, you’ll find this to be an easy walk—mostly flat and never strenuous.

Where is the Chemin de Saint-Jacques in France?

Map of the Chemin de Saint-Jacques from Eauze to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

Accommodation along the Chemin de Saint-Jacques from Eauze to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

Accommodation is available in the following towns (click on each link for a comprehensive list).

Distances are given from the starting point of Le Puy-en-Velay (and assume the shorter, traditional GR 65 path has been followed between Figeac and Cahors).

If you have followed my suggested itinerary along the Célé valley, you’ll have covered 553 kilometres (345.6 miles) when you reach Eauze.

532.1 km       (332.6 mi)       Eauze 

539.7 km       (337.3 mi)       La Hargue 

543.1 km       (339.4 mi)       Manciet  

547.1 km       (341.9 mi)       Haget 

552.1 km       (345.1 mi)       Nogaro 

560.1 km       (350.1 mi)       Lanne-Soubiran 

556.6 km       (354.1 mi)       Lelin-Lapujolle 

577.1 km       (360.7 mi)       Barcelonne-du-Gers  

579.6 km       (362.3 mi)       Aire-sur-l’Adour  

597.6 km       (373.5 mi)       Miramont-Sensacq 

602.1 km       (376.3 mi)       Sensacq 

606.1 km       (378.8 mi)       Pimbo 

612.6 km       (382.9 mi)       Arzacq-Arraziguet  

614.6 km       (384.1 mi)       Labalette 

622.7 km       (389.2 mi)       Fichous Riumayou 

625.1 km       (390.7 mi)       Larreule  

628.6 km       (392.9 mi)       Uzan

632.6 km       (395.4 mi)       Geus-d’Arzacq  

633.6 km       (396 mi)          Pomps 

643 km          (401.9 mi)       Arthez-de-Béarn  

650.6 km       (406.6 mi)       Argagnon 

652.6 km       (407.9 mi)       Maslacq 

661.1 km       (413.2 mi)       Sauvelade 

674.8 km       (421.8 mi)       Navarrenx 

677.1 km       (423.2 mi)       Castetnau-Camblong 

689.6 km       (431 mi)          Lichos 

694.4 km       (434 mi)          Aroue 

614.6 km       (446.6 mi)       Harambeltz  

718.1 km       (448.8 mi)       Ostabat-Asme  

721.7 km       (451.1 mi)       Larceveau  

728.9 km       (455.6 mi)       Mongelos 

730.4 km       (456.5 mi)       Larralde Borda  

730.7 km       (456.7 mi)       Lacarre  

734.2 km       (458.9 mi)       Bussunarits 

736.5 km       (460.3 mi)       Saint-Jean-le-Vieux 

740.6 km       (462.9 mi)       Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port 

How to book accommodation in French

Chemin de Saint-Jacques itinerary from Eauze to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

From Eauze to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, the Chemin de Saint-Jacques follows an often flat and gentle path. There are hills, of course, but the steep climbs and tricky descents are well behind you. If you have been walking for a few weeks now, you’ll find the going much easier than the first few days out of Le Puy-en-Velay.

If you have been walking for several weeks, you may be looking forward to a day of rest and relaxation. The ‘most beautiful village’ of Navarrenx, with its ancient fortified walls, historic buildings (and good range of cafés) is an ideal place to relax or explore, depending on your energy levels and tired feet.

My ten-day itinerary allows time to poke your head inside the beautiful churches you’ll pass along the way, to stop for an hour or so at Abbaye de Sauvelade and to spend most of the afternoon exploring Navarrenx.

If you prefer to complete this walk in nine, more evenly paced days, you’ll find a nine-day itinerary below.

Most importantly, both itineraries will bring you to Harambeltz on the penultimate night of your walk where, I hope, you’ll be able to visit inside Église Saint-Nicolas.

Ten-day itinerary for Eauze to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

Day 1 Eauze to Nogaro (20 km/12.5 mi)

Day 2 Nogaro to Aire-sur-l’Adour (27.5 km/17.2 mi)

Day 3 Aire-sur-l’Adour to Pimbo (26.5 km/16.6 mi)

Day 4 Pimbo to Larreule (19 km/11.9 mi)

Day 5 Larreule to Arthez-de-Béarn (17.9 km/11.2 mi)

Day 6 Arthez-de-Béarn to Sauvelade (18.1 km/11.3 mi)

Day 7 Sauvelade to Navarrenx (13.7 km/8.6 mi)

Day 8 Navarrenx to Aroue (19.6 km/12.3 mi)

Day 9 Aroue to Harambeltz (20.2 km/12.6 mi)

Day 10 Harambeltz to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (26 km/16.3 mi)

Nine-day itinerary for Eauze to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

Day 1 Eauze to Nogaro (20 km/12.5 mi)

Day 2 Nogaro to Barcelonne-du-Gers (25 km/15.6 mi)

Day 3 Barcelonne-du-Gers to Sensacq (25 km/15.6 mi)

Day 4 Sensacq to Larreule (23 km/14.4 mi)

Day 5 Larreule to Argagnon (25.5 km/15.9 mi)

Day 6 Argagnon to Navarrenx (24.2 km/15.1 mi)

Day 7 Navarrenx to Aroue (19.6 km/12.3 mi)

Day 8 Aroue to Harambeltz (20.2 km/12.6 mi)

Day 9 Harambeltz to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (26 km/16.3 mi)

HIGHLIGHTS OF STAGE 5: EAUZE TO SAINT-JEAN-PIED-DE-PORT

Fields of glorious sunflowers

Before reaching the splendour of the Pyrénées, the GR 65 winds through endless cornfields—tall green leafy stalks that block the view and threaten to engulf the path or, at other times, broad fields stretching as far as the eye can see.

Just when you think it’s all a bit monotonous, a field of sunflowers appears and those dull stalks are replaced with cheerful yellow faces.

To see the sunflowers at their best, you’ll need to walk during the summer months. France can be uncomfortably hot at this time of year with temperatures reaching 40⁰ Celsius (100⁰ Fahrenheit). Carry as much water as you can manage as there is often little shelter along the path.

Visit some of France’s most beautiful churches

Between Eauze and Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, the chemin passes several beautiful chapels, churches and cathedrals. Some will ask only a few minutes to appreciate their beauty, others warrant a more thorough visit.

Located in the middle of nowhere, among the endless fields between Haget and Nogaro, is Chapelle de la Commanderie which was built by the Knights of Malta in the twelfth century. At one time, the church was part of a larger complex which included a hospital and provided shelter and care to passing pilgrims.

Église Saint-Nicolas in Nogaro was consecrated in 1060 and is one of the oldest fortified churches in southern France. Inside, you’ll find many original features, including the eleventh-century baptismal font, and frescoes dating from Roman times which are thought to be among the oldest of their kind in existence.

In the heart of Aire-sur-l’Adour, you’ll find Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste. First built in the eleventh century, the building has undergone several restorations to repair fire damage. The exterior is restrained, almost austere, but the interior is emblazoned with vibrantly coloured frescoes, which were added in the nineteenth century.

As you climb the hill leaving Aire-sur-l’Adour, you’ll pass the church dedicated to Sainte-Quitterie, a fifth-century princess decapitated by her fiancée when she refused to denounce her faith and marry him. In the eleventh century, her head was brought to this place on the hill, where monks built the basilica in her honour. Three hundred years later, the building was badly damaged during the Wars of Religion, but was soon restored and now features a magnificent Gothic façade.

Guided visits are held throughout the week between mid-June and mid-September (and may be arranged at other times of the year). Visits are free and last approximately 45 minutes. Reservations are required, otherwise the guide may not attend.

Across the road from the church dedicated to Sainte-Quitterie in Aire-sur-l’Adour, is Chapelle des Ursulines. Although there had been a monastery on this site for some time, the buildings were destroyed in 1797 during the French Revolution. The current buildings were built in the last half of the nineteenth century and were in use for several decades before being abandoned and left exposed to the elements.

The chapel has since been painstakingly restored and now operates as a gîte, welcoming up to twenty pilgrims and walkers each night. To see inside, you’ll need to book a bed for the night (an experience I can thoroughly recommend following my visit in 2022).  

An hour’s walk past Miramont-Sensacq, you’ll pass l’église de Sensacq—an eleventh-century church dedicated to Saint-Jacques. At the entrance, a covered porch provides enough shelter for a dozen or so pilgrims to eat lunch or spend the night without entering the church. On the morning I passed through, the covered porch provided welcome cover from the drizzling rain, but the voices of tired pilgrims seemed to whisper through the walls, and I could easily imagine a row of blankets laid there, ready for nightfall.

A few hundred metres before the Chemin de Saint-Jacques reaches the village of Larreule, you’ll notice a sign pointing up the hill to the twelfth-century abbey church of Saint-Pierre.

Benedictine monks erected the first abbey church on this site towards the end of the tenth century. This was an important stop for the first pilgrims who walked this path 1,000 years ago, and many would gather here each, grateful for the food and shelter offered by the monks. The church was badly damaged in 1569 during the Wars of Religion, but rebuilding works began soon after. The bell tower was added in 1865, so the church you’ll see on your walk is a blend of ancient history and more recent restoration.

Two kilometres before arriving in Arthez-de-Béarn, you’ll pass a small twelfth-century chapel, Chapelle de Caubin—one of many built on the orders of Gaston IV, the first knight to enter Jerusalem during the Crusades.

Gaston returned home from battle dismayed by the senseless massacres he had witnessed, and ordered the construction of several hostels and chapels to provide shelter for pilgrims headed to Santiago. During the Wars of Religion, the hostel next to the chapel was largely destroyed, as were so many throughout France. Sadly, Chapelle de Caubin is all that remains of Gaston’s vision.

Founded in 1128 by Gaston IV, Abbaye de Sauvelade and its monastery were gifted to an order of Benedictine monks. The abbey became an important stage on the Chemin de Saint-Jacques, as the monks provided food and shelter to the passing pilgrims. In 1789, during the French Revolution, the monastery was sold and the abbey demoted to a parish church.

In 1973, the abbey was classified as an Historic Monument and recent restoration work has returned the building to its former glory. Allow thirty minutes or so to call inside and admire the beautifully decorated interior chapels, and a wooden statue of Saint-Jacques le Majeur, gilded in goldleaf. A film chronicling the restoration of the abbey and its role in the community plays throughout the day.

For me, the highlight of this walk was Église Saint-Nicolas in the tiny community of Harambeltz. Nestled among the farmhouses and cowsheds, its simple stone walls hide a meticulously restored baroque interior.

Since 2019, the church has only been open for groups of ten or more visitors who have made prior arrangements. In 2022, I booked a bed at the village gîte—Etchetoa—aware that a visit inside the church was unlikely to eventuate. Late in the afternoon, a large group of Boy Scouts arrived and pitched their tents around the church grounds. You can imagine my delight when, later that evening, our host Marie announced that doors to the church were open and we were welcome to call in!

Take a closer look inside Église Saint-Nicolas and find accommodation details.

If you approach Harambeltz via the variante that passes through Uhart-Mixe, you’ll miss Chapelle de Soyarza, one of the less well-known gems along this section of the Chemin de Saint-Jacques. Instead of turning left towards Harambeltz when the variante rejoins the GR 65, turn right and continue along the GR 65 back towards Stèle de Gibraltar and Saint-Palais. After fifteen minutes or so of gentle climbing, you’ll reach the chapel and be rewarded with magnificent views of the Pyrénées.

Visit two of France’s most beautiful villages

Navarrenx

Seven days after leaving Eauze, you’ll reach Navarrenx—one of France’s ‘most beautiful villages’. Surrounded by ramparts and defensive fortifications, the town occupies a commanding position overlooking the river. Take an hour, an afternoon, or perhaps a rest day, to explore the stone walls and beautiful medieval buildings.

On Wednesday mornings (throughout the year), you’ll find a fresh food market in Place Centrale Darralde and from May until September, an additional market is held in Place de la Marie every Sunday morning, making either day the perfect day to take a break.

Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

Three days later, your walk ends at another of France’s ‘most beautiful villages’—Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. The GR 65 enters the village through Porte Saint-Jacques and continues along Rue de la Citadelle—an impossibly pretty lane lined with chambres d’hôtes, souvenir shops and stores selling anything a pilgrim headed to Santiago could possibly want.

Take a closer look around Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and find a comprehensive list of accommodation.

Navarrenx and Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port are both recent additions to Les Plus Beaux Villages de France, gaining their classifications since 2014. Formed in 1982, with the aim of protecting and promoting the heritage and beauty of small towns throughout France, the association of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France has grown to include 172 villages scattered throughout the country.

Between Le Puy-en-Velay and Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, the Chemin de Saint-Jacques passes through eleven of France’s most beautiful villages.  

Dine at a Michelin-starred restaurant

Ten kilometres from Aire-sur-l’Adour, in Eugénie-les-Bains, you’ll find the three-starred Michelin restaurant, Les Prés d’Eugénie. Michel Guérard has delighted diners here for the past forty years and is considered one of the founding fathers of nouvelle cuisine.

(It’s a little further from the trail than I’d normally venture for dinner but some opportunities come along only once in a lifetime. If you’re spending the night in Aire-sur-l’Adour and prefer not to travel far, I can thoroughly recommend the restaurant at Chez l’Ahumat.)

Stock up on trail mix at the local markets

Several towns along this section of the Chemin de Saint-Jacques host a weekly fresh food market. You’re sure to encounter at least one during your visit, so make the most of the varied local produce and stock up on fresh figs, nuts and other seasonal offerings to sustain you throughout the day.

Eauze—Thursday morning

Nogaro—Wednesday and Saturday mornings

Barcelonne-du-Gers—Sunday morning

Aire-sur-l’Adour—Tuesday and Saturday mornings

Arzacq-Arraziguet—Saturday morning

Arthez-de-Béarn—Saturday morning

Navarrenx—Wednesday morning (all year), Sunday morning (from May to September)

Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port—Monday

If you’ve walked the entire path from Le Puy-en-Velay, your arrival in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port will, no doubt, bring many mixed feelings. There will be relief and gratitude that you’ve arrived safely, that you can sleep in the next morning (and any blisters will begin to heal!). But there will also be sadness that the friends you’ve made over the past weeks will be going their own way—and that tomorrow you’ll return to the ‘real’ world of bus timetables and everyday activities.

Unless, of course, you’re continuing along the Compostelle to Santiago…

Explore each stage in more depth:

Stage 1: Le Puy-en-Velay to Aumont-Aubrac

Stage 2: Aumont-Aubrac to Figeac

Stage 3: Figeac to Cahors

Stage 4: Cahors to Eauze

Stage 5: Eauze to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

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