(Published November 2015, last updated March 2024)
Each time I visit Le Puy-en-Velay, I find something else about it to love and it is now one of my favourite places to visit in France. Although the town sprawls over quite a large area, the historical heart is a charming mixture of quaint alleys, colourful houses and more than enough cafés and monuments to keep me fed and entertained for a day or two.
Le Puy-en-Velay is the starting point of two of France’s most loved long-distance walking paths:
- The Chemin de Saint-Jacques which stretches for 740 kilometres (463 miles) south-west to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and the start of the Camino across Spain to Santiago, and
- The Chemin de Stevenson which follows the footsteps of the Scottish author, Robert Louis Stevenson, as he walked with his donkey, Modestine, towards Alès, some 270 kilometres (169 miles) to the south.
Before strapping on your hiking boots and hitting either trail, there is much to see and do in Le Puy-en-Velay, and it is well worth allowing a full day to explore the town and visit the many monuments and museums.
Cathédrale Notre-Dame du-Puy
Not to be missed—
Cathédrale Notre-Dame du Puy
Said to resemble an enormous ship but only ever partially visible from the narrow streets below, the brown, black and red bricks of the cathedral give the impression of a small and welcoming parish church rather than the grand structure revealed from higher up the hill.
Worshippers have been coming to this spot since the fourth century but after Bishop Gothescale made the first pilgrimage from here in 951 AD, the small church was unable to cope with the influx of pilgrims and a larger church was needed.
The current building dates from the twelfth century and originally housed a statue of the Black Virgin donated by Saint-Louis. It was, unfortunately, burned during the French Revolution but later replaced by the current seventeenth-century statue.
Rue Raphaël, start of the pilgrims’ trail
As a walker, a visit to the cathedral is de rigueur as this is the starting point for the 1,522-kilometre pilgrimage to Santiago and many walkers set out only after attending the 7am Pilgrims’ Mass. (I confess I skipped the Pilgrims’ Mass on my first few visits, but did attend before starting out along the Chemin de Saint-Jacques in 2022. Although I understood very little of the service—in French—I found it to be a moving experience and one I will repeat next time.)
The cloister adjoining Cathedrale Notre-Dame du-Puy
Cloister and Treasury
I have an unhealthy obsession with cloisters and will always suggest you visit but I do think this one is particularly beautiful.
Built in the eleventh and twelfth centuries, and lovingly restored, it features red and black tiles laid out in mosaic patterns. It retains many of the original capitals and the wall of the Chapter House, where the Cannons met (and many were later buried), features a painting of the crucifixion from the early thirteenth century.
The painting of the crucifixion dates from the early thirteenth century
Downstairs, the Treasury displays many religious artefacts—mostly a collection of gold and silver liturgical items and several beautifully embroidered garments. Among other rare and interesting objects, is a nail believed to have been used during the crucifixion and later fashioned into a horse’s bit for Emperor Constantine. It was found in an abbey near Le Puy and has been on display here since the nineteenth century.
Cloister adjoining Cathédrale Notre-Dame du-Puy
Le Camino Musée and le Café des Pèlerins
To get you in the mood for the walk along the Chemin de Saint-Jacques (or perhaps inspire you for another time), this museum (located behind the cathedral, next to the café) traces the history of the Camino from earliest times through to modern day.
Each year, the museum features an exhibition which focuses on a particular aspect of the Camino. Previous exhibitions have included a short film (in French) featuring walkers from the 1940s, 1960s and more recently as they recounted their experiences—the highs and the lows—along the Camino, the recollections and spiritual lessons from the journals of monks and priests who have made the journey over the past few centuries, and a beautiful display of water colour paintings!
Next to the museum and open to everyone (not just pilgrims!), the Camino Café is a great place to relax, perhaps bump into some fellow walkers and ask any last minute questions you may have about the walk.
Café des Pèlerins offers pilgrims and visitors a chance to relax over a cold drink or light meal
Every afternoon at 5.30, the Friends of Saint-Jacques host a gathering here where walkers setting out the next day can meet and share their hopes and plans for the following days. If you are walking alone, this can be a good opportunity to find some walking buddies while sharing a glass or two of Verveine—a herbal concoction made on the premises and a local speciality of this area.
The Friends of Saint-Jacques will also make sure everyone is well-prepared and has a bed arranged for the first night.
Statue Notre-Dame de France casts a watchful eye over Le Puy-en-Velay
Rocher Corneille and Statue Notre-Dame de France
Watching over the cathedral from Rocher Corneille (rocher refers to a rocky peak en français), is an enormous statue of Mary holding the baby Jesus.
Made from the metal of Russian cannons captured during the Crimean War, it stands 22.7 metres (six storeys) high and offers stunning views of the town and surrounding countryside from the base and from a viewing platform inside the statue.
Twelfth-century chapel perched high on Rocher Saint-Michel
Rocher Saint-Michel d’Aiguilhe
Perhaps the most stirring of the monuments in Le Puy-en-Velay is the tiny Chapelle Saint-Michel, overlooking the town from the top of Rocher Saint-Michel d’Aiguilhe.
A climb of 268 steps will bring you inside the chapel which was built in 961 AD and still oozes with charm and an overwhelming sense of history and serenity.
Inside Chapelle Saint-Michel, a statue of Saint Michael stands guard below the richly decorated walls
Lace-making history of Le Puy-en-Velay
Le Puy-en-Velay was once the centre of a thriving lace-making industry and there are many shops in town that display and sell delicate tablecloths, napkins and clothing. In some stores, it is possible to see original lace-making equipment in action and watch these exquisite pieces being created.
Leaving the cathedral after Mass on the morning of 30 May 2022. It’s time to start walking, but not before I duck back to Maison au Loup for breakfast!
FAST FACTS
Which long-distance walk in France visits Le Puy-en-Velay?
Chemin de Saint-Jacques du-Puy (Stage 1: Le Puy-en-Velay to Aumont-Aubrac)
and
Chemin de Stevenson
Where is Le Puy-en-Velay, France? Find it on Google maps
You’ll find my suggested itinerary for both walks on the posts mentioned above, but if you prefer to set your own agenda, I share the steps I take to plan my itinerary on any long-distance walk (using the Chemin de Stevenson as a case study)
Train services to Le Puy-en-Velay arrive from Lyon or Clermont-Ferrand, both of which have daily connections from Paris.
The Compostel’Bus service runs every morning, connecting Le Puy-en-Velay with villages along the Chemin de Saint-Jacques as far as Conques and making the return journey each afternoon. Other stops include Montbonnet, Saint-Privat-d’Allier, Monistrol-d’Allier, Saugues, Villeret-d’Apchier, La Chapelle-Saint-Roch (3 kms beyond le Sauvage), Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole, Aumont-Aubrac, Nasbinals, Aubrac, Saint-Chély-d’Aubrac, Saint-Côme-d’Olt, Espalion, Estaing, Golinhac, Espeyrac and Sénergues.
Tourist Office in Le Puy-en-Velay
You’ll find the Tourist Office on Place du Clauzel.
Before you arrive, download the Guide Practique which includes details of several guided visits offered by the Tourist Office or three circuits around town if you prefer to explore on your own.
Accommodation in Le Puy-en-Velay
There are several options for accommodation in Le Puy-en-Velay, with something for every taste and budget. Many walkers stay at one of the four gîtes for the opportunity to meet some fellow pilgrims.
Two of my overnight stays have been spent at Hôtel Regina which is conveniently located two blocks from the train station, is a short stroll (650 metres) to the centre of town and provides easy access to both the Chemin de Saint-Jacques and the Chemin de Stevenson.
In 2022, I stayed at Maison au Loup—a charming chambre d’hôte in the historic heart of the town, and close enough to the cathedral that I could duck back for breakfast after attending the Pilgrims’ Mass. You’ll find accommodation at:
Hotels
Appart’Hôtel des Capucins
Ibis Centre
Ibis Styles
The Originals
Hôtel Chris’tel
Logis du Cagaire
Hôtel le Regina (closed for renovations in 2024)
Dyke Hôtel
Hôtel le Bilboquet
Ibis Budget
Chambres d’hôtes
Demeure du Lac de Fugeres (seven rooms, 20 people)
L’Epicurium (six rooms, 12 people)
Les Jardins de Champfleury (four rooms, 12 people)
Une Coquille sous l’Oreiller (four rooms, 10 people)
Le Jardin du Dolaizon (four rooms, 10 people)
Villa Loriline (three rooms, 10 people)
Maison au Loup (five rooms, nine people)
Le Prévôté (five rooms, nine people)
La Terrasse de Marie (four rooms, eight people)
Les Cimes de Puy-en-Velay (two rooms, six people)
Logis de Chazourne ( two rooms, six people)
Le Clos de Cat (two rooms, five people)
La Maison de Cluny (two rooms, four people)
Jerphanion Cambacérès
Gîtes
Gîte Saint-François (19 people)
Gîte la Decouverte (14 people)
Gîte le Nid du Merle (12 people)
Gîte d’Étape des Capucins
Camping
Camping du Puy-en-Velay
How to book accommodation in French
Where to eat in Le Puy-en-Velay
As dinner time approaches, I usually find myself close to Place du Plot and choose from one of the many cafés lining the square. There are also several cafés close to the cathedral in Rue des Tables, Place des Tables, Rue Raphaël and many more along the main road. You’ll find a comprehensive list of restaurants on the Tourist Office website.
There is also a full range of bakeries, supermarkets and speciality food stores in town where you can stock up on trail mix and nibbles to carry you through the next few days.
Fresh food markets are held at Place du Plot every Saturday morning.
Practical tips for long-distance walking—preparation, packing and avoiding blisters
Purchase the 2024 editions of the Chemin de Saint-Jacques (PDF) guidebooks
Purchase five guidebooks covering Le Puy-en-Velay to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port
Purchase the 2024 edition of the Chemin de Stevenson (PDF) guidebook
