(Published July 2024)
Founded in the eleventh century, Martel was once the capital and commercial hub of the Turenne region. All that remains of the walls that once protected the town are seven towers—earning Martel the nickname la ville aux sept tours.
As the Train à Vapeur pulls away from Martel, the view back to the town shows the remaining seven towers.
Flower stall at the Saturday morning market
In 1994, Martel acquired a new classification—Site Remarquable du Goût (goût meaning taste en français). Markets held here under the covered halle offer world-class truffles, foie gras, cheeses and lamb—all from the surrounding area.
Rue Droite in the centre of Martel
In 2022, Martel joined the ranks of France’s ‘most beautiful villages’—a process that, according to Sylvie, our host at La Devinie, began ten years ago. Since the decision to seek qualification was taken by the local council, centuries of grime have been removed from the buildings restoring the stone to its original soft grey, shutters have been scrubbed clean and painted, and flowering plants add a cheery note along the narrow streets.
Backstreet in Martel
When you arrive in Martel, call into the Tourist Office and ask for a map of the town. On it you’ll find sixteen points of interest highlighting many of the buildings where important historical events occurred.
A glimpse into the distant past on Rue de l’Église
Before you start your walk around town, head upstairs to the Musée d’Uxellodunum which houses a collection of protohistoric (prehistoric to recorded historical times) and gallo-roman artefacts from the area.
Enjoying a pre-dinner drink and watching the world go by from Maison Sophie on Place de la Halle
The town boasts many fine examples of noble houses from the Middle Ages. The Palais de la Raymondie, where the Tourist Office is located, was completed in 1330 and has been used as the Mairie (local council) since the French Revolution.
The tower of Maison Fabri (photo taken in 2011, prior to the renovations which earned Martel its ‘plus beau village’ classification)
In nearby Maison Fabri (stop 3 on the map), Henri—brother of Richard the Lionheart—died in 1183 after returning from pillaging Rocamadour.
The unmissable blue door of Hôtel de Briance (stop 4 on the map) was declared an Historic Monument in 1928. Added in the sixteenth century, it could be opened to allow entry to men on horseback.
The fortress-like exterior of Église Saint-Maur towers above the rooftops at the end of Rue Droite
Stop 8 on the map is the church of Saint-Maur. Viewed from a distance, this imposing structure appears more like a fortress than a place of worship. Construction began in Roman times but all that remains from this period is the twelfth-century tympanum above the door.
Twelfth-century tympanum above the entrance to Église Saint-Maur
Interior of Église Saint-Maur
Further additions to the church, including the clock tower, were made over the next 400 years. And in contrast to the brutal and austere exterior of the church, the interior is richly decorated in delicate patterns and vibrant artwork.
All aboard the steam train for the ride along the cliffs of Mirandol
From April to September, a tourist train makes the journey along the now defunct rail line between Martel and Saint-Denis-près-Martel. Travelling along the eighty-metre cliffs of Mirandol, the trip offers spectacular views of the countryside.
We were blessed to share the ride with a group of school children whose boisterous whoops of delight each time the train entered a tunnel added to the fun!
The train makes a couple of stops on the way to and from Saint-Denis-près-Martel allowing passengers to disembark and enjoy the views over the valley.
The tranquil garden at chambre d’hôte La Devinie, viewed from the sitting room
FAST FACTS
Which long-distance walk in France visits Martel? Martel to Rocamadour
Where is Martel, France? Find it on Google maps
Martel is the starting point for the 127 kilometre (80 mile) walk from Martel to Rocamadour.
I recommend allowing enough time on your visit to ride the steam train along the cliffs of Mirandol, and to start your walk towards Turenne after a quick visit to the Wednesday or Saturday morning markets.
My suggested itinerary for this eight-day walk allows plenty of time to relax and enjoy the nine ‘most beautiful villages’ along the way – Turenne, Collonges-la-Rouge, Curemonte, Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne, Autoire, Loubressac, Carennac and Rocamadour and to explore Château de Castelnau-Bretenoux.
If you prefer to set your own agenda, I share the steps I take to plan my itinerary on any long-distance walk (using the Chemin de Stevenson as a case study).
Lot bus ligne 888 connects Martel with Souillac and Saint-Denis-les-Martel, both of which have good train connections to Brive-la-Gaillarde, a major rail hub in France.
Tourist Office in Martel
The Tourist Office is located on Place des Consuls. Opening hours are listed on the Tourist Office website.
A map of the town showing sixteen points of interest is available at the Tourist Office or can be downloaded from the Dordogne Valley website.
Musée d’Uxellodunum is located above the Tourist Office. Opening hours are limited throughout the year. You’ll find them listed on the Martel website.
The tourist train running between Martel and Saint-Denis-près-Martel may be steam or diesel, depending on the day of the week. Check the schedule, which varies throughout the year, on the Train à Vapeur website for details of the train and operating times. Avoid the long queue on the day by purchasing tickets in advance. Tickets become available in the middle of the preceding month.
Accommodation in Martel
There are several options for accommodation in Martel but I can heartily recommend La Devinie where we stayed in June 2024. Sylvie’s recently renovated and richly decorated home is a delight and her homemade breakfast is well-worth lingering over. I thoroughly enjoyed my stay here and will be back.
Hotel
Auberge des Sept Tours
Chambres d’Hôtes
Le Petit Moulin (5 rooms, 12 people) (book through your favourite hotel booking website)
La Devinie (4 rooms, 10 people)
Chambre d’hôte du Barri (1 room, 2 people)
Campground
Campground de la Callopie
How to book accommodation in French
Where to eat in Martel
You’ll find several cafés surrounding Place de la Halle and along the nearby side streets.
Since we arrived in Martel very late in the afternoon, Sylvie at La Devinie offered to reserve us a table for dinner at a restaurant she liked. Our meal there, at Maison Sophie on Place de la Halle, was so good we went back the following night. I can also recommend Le Crépuscule where we enjoyed a delicious savoury crêpe for lunch.
On the main street you’ll find a bakery (boulangerie) and supermarket where you can stock up on trail mix and other necessities.
Fresh food markets are held in Place de la Halle every Wednesday and Saturday morning.
Practical tips for long-distance walking—preparation, packing and avoiding blisters
Purchase the 2024 edition of the Martel to Rocamadour (PDF) guidebook
[…] the walk from Martel to Rocamadour passes through nine of France’s most beautiful villages – Martel, Turenne, Collonges-la-Rouge, Curemonte, Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne, Autoire, Loubressac, Carennac and […]