(Published December 2020, last updated March 2024)
Perched high on a ridge above the northern bank of the Garonne River stands the ‘most beautiful village’ of Auvillar.
Ideally located 21 kilometres (13 miles), or one day’s walk, past Moissac, the village is the perfect choice for an overnight stay when walking along the Chemin de Saint-Jacques du-Puy.
View across the river to the village of Espalais
This location, high above the surrounding countryside, provided a clear view of armies approaching over the wide plains to the north or along the river, giving the village strategic importance when it was fist settled in Gallo-Roman times (100 BCE—500 CE).
Despite this, Auvillar was invaded many times over the next several hundred years and, in the tenth century, high walls were built to fortify the village and the château. In the centuries that followed, the Hundred Years War and the Wars of Religion brought many battles to the town. Numerous buildings were badly damaged and the château was destroyed.
Clock tower guards the entrance to Auvillar
By the nineteenth century, Auvillar had developed a flourishing pottery industry and at the height of production in 1820, fifteen workshops were turning out more than a million pieces of pottery. The town’s proximity to the Garonne River enabled goods to be transported to Bordeaux and on to England (examples of the pottery, with its distinctive fluted edges and striking colours can be viewed at le Musée de la Faïence in Place du Château (open every afternoon, except Tuesday, from mid-April until mid-October).
If you are not staying the night in Auvillar, take an hour or so to explore the village. As you enter the town, and pass under the eighteenth-century clock tower, turn left instead of continuing straight ahead along the Chemin de Saint-Jacques.
A few steps further along, in the centre of the village, you’ll find the beautiful Halle Circulaire, which offers a shady spot to relax and rest your legs.
From here, it’s a short walk to Place du Château and the spectacular views back over the river towards Espalais. Spend a few moments admiring the landscape, then stroll back to the Tourist Office and turn left towards the starkly beautiful Église Saint-Pierre.
Église Saint-Pierre – the facade reflects reflects renovations and and enlargements made over the centuries
Built in the twelfth century, this structure suffered extensive damage during the wars of the Middle Ages and now, the priest’s chapel is all that remains of the original building. Several extensions and restorations have occurred since that time and a colour-coded plaque inside the church explains when each of the current walls and chapels were added.
The curved wall of the priest’s chapel is all that remains of the twelfth-century origins of the church
Auvillar hosts several festivals throughout the year. Competition for a bed can be fierce at these times and so it’s advisable to book ahead if you want to be sure of a room. Some notable festivities include:
Fête de la Saint-Noé, held on the weekend following Pentecost (40 days after Easter), celebrates all things wine related.
Fête de la Musique—celebrated on the weekend in mid-June with concerts held in Place de la Halle.
Other musical events, hosted by the French-German Cultural Society, are held in August and September.
In late July, stories from the history of Auvillar are re-enacted by Théâtre en plein air, with the village serving as a giant backdrop.
Fête de la Saint-Jean, held on 22 June, celebrates the summer solstice. It begins in the afternoon with a game of pétanque, and continues into the night, with a communal dinner of paëlla and the lighting of a giant bonfire.
FAST FACTS
Which long-distance walk in France visits Auvillar?
Chemin de Saint-Jacques du-Puy (Stage 4: Cahors to Eauze)
Where is Auvillar, France? Find it on Google maps
Auvillar is located 434.8 kilometres (271.8 miles) along the traditional Chemin de Saint-Jacques path and an easy 21 kilometre (13 mile), or one day’s walk, from the previous town of Moissac.
My preferred route follows the variante from Figeac through the Célé valley which increases the distance to 455.7 kilometres (284.8 miles)—a relaxed 26-day walk from the starting point of Le Puy-en-Velay, but if you are pressed for time, Auvillar can be reached quite comfortably in 20 days without sacrificing any of the highlights..
Click through to find my suggested itinerary for all five stages of the walk or click through onto each of the five stages to find faster itineraries.
If you prefer to set your own agenda, I share the steps I take to plan my itinerary on any long-distance walk (using the Chemin de Stevenson as a case study)
Auvillar is one of eleven most beautiful villages found along the Chemin de Saint-Jacques du-Puy.
Tourist Office in Auvillar
You’ll find the Tourist Office on Place de la Halle. Opening hours are listed on the Tourist Office website.
You’ll find a list of the activities planned for the year on the Auvillar website.
Accommodation in Auvillar
If you’ve grown accustomed to pitching your tent as you walk along the Chemin de Saint-Jacques, this is the night to upgrade to a cosy bed (there is no campground nearby). Options for accommodation include:
Hotel
Hôtel de l’Horloge
Chambres d’hôtes
Maison Necty (7 rooms, 14 people)
La Petite Inde (4 rooms, 10 people)
Les Moins (2 rooms, 4 people) (book through your favourite hotel booking website)
Sur le Chemin (one room, two people)
Gîtes de Marchet
La Galerie du Port (book through your favourite hotel booking website)
Gîtes
Gîte Communale (18 people)
Gîte Place du Château (5 rooms, 15 people)
Les Amis de Saint-Jacques (4 rooms, 14 people)
Gîte Cellario (2 rooms, 4 people)
Les Acacias (1 room, 4 people)
La P’tite Graine
If beds in Auvillar are fully booked, you’ll find accommodation in Espalais at the foot of the ridge before crossing the river:
Le Clos d’Espalais (5 rooms, 12 people)
How to book accommodation in French
Where to eat in Auvillar
No matter whether you are in the mood for pizza, crêpes or something more refined, you’ll find a meal to suit your taste in Auvillar. You’ll find a complete list on the village website.
For more practical supplies, you’ll also find a bakery and supermarket in Auvillar.
If you are leaving Auvillar on a Sunday morning, take advantage of the weekly fresh food market, held in Place de la Halle, to purchase supplies for a picnic lunch.
Practical tips for long-distance walking—preparation, packing and avoiding blisters
Purchase the 2024 editions of the Chemin de Saint-Jacques (PDF) guidebooks
Purchase five guidebooks covering Le Puy-en-Velay to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port
