(Published April 2013, last updated March 2026)
Clinging precariously to the side of a cliff high above the Alzou gorge, the sacred city of Rocamadour is a breath-taking sight.
Considered the second most important religious site in France (after Mont-Saint-Michel), the town attracts a steady stream of visitors. Let’s join them and explore this historic village.
As the sun sets and spot lights flood the terraces, Rocamadour takes on a magical glow
Whether you are walking or driving, the approach from the tiny village of l’Hôpitalet provides a spectacular view of Rocamadour—with several chapels and the château clinging to the side of the cliff. (The best views are from the small parking area next to Le Belvédère hotel.) If you have done any research for your trip, you have no doubt seen this view in many guidebooks and marvelled at the ingenuity and dedication required to carve out a community in such an unlikely location.
The ancient chapels carved into the cliff-face tower above the main street of Rocamadour
Enjoy the view awhile, then follow the path from l’Hôpitalet down the hill, through the thirteenth-century porte, or gate, into the village.
The story of Armadour and the Black Madonna
Legend has it that Zacchaeus—also known as Armadour and a servant of Mary, mother of Jesus—came to live here in the caves as a hermit, bringing with him a black wooden statue of the Madonna.
Looking up the cliff face to the château
In 1166, more than one thousand years later, the perfectly preserved body of Armadour was discovered buried beneath the steps of the chapel. Pilgrims have been flocking here ever since, often climbing the 216 steps to the church on their knees.
Although Rocamadour was the scene of much fighting during the Hundred Years War, it suffered little damage. Sadly, 200 years later during the Wars of Religion, the village was taken by the Protestants and the body of Armadour was burned.
Prior to the discovery of Armadour’s body in 1166, Rocamadour was considered to be on one of the minor pilgrim routes leading to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Nonetheless, it has been visited by several significant historical figures over the centuries.
In 1159, King Henry II of England came to Rocamadour, accompanied by his chancellor, Sir Thomas Beckett (later Archbishop of Canterbury). The church courtyard also has a marble plaque honouring King Louis IX, who visited in 1244.
Chapelle Notre-Dame houses a statue of the Black Madonna
No doubt, these figures stood bfore the Black Madonna in Chapelle de Notre-Dame, as you might do during your visit. Above her sits a ninth-century bell which is said to ring spontaneously whenever a person in danger at sea prays to the Virgin and receives her protection.
Chemin de Croix
From the church, a tunnel leads out to the Chemin de Croix—a path zigzagging up the side of the cliff to the château. At each turn of the pathway, a monument tells the story of Christ’s last days—from the Last Supper through to the resurrection.
Château in Rocamadour
The château is now home to the clergy who live and serve in Rocamadour. The remparts, or surrounding walls, offer stunning views over the rooftops down to the valley floor.
If you’ve had enough walking for one day, a funicular will take you from the lower town up to the château, with a single ticket covering travel in both directions.
During the day, a tourist train will whisk you from the valley up to the village, and as the sun sets, a ride across the valley to the ridge opposite provides a magical view of Rocamadour at night. (I have to confess that one highlight was wandering back to my hotel along the deserted streets after the night ride.)
Rocamadour’s importance, and popularity, as a pilgrimage site has grown enormously since the discovery of Armadour’s perfectly preserved body. Today, the main street of the medieval village is lined with gift shops stocked with religious artefacts and trinkets as well as regional produce such as foie gras, truffles and duck confit.
The main street of Rocamadour – lined with gift shops, cafés and hotels
Although the atmosphere can seem somewhat touristy and commercial today, the scene is not that different to a thousand years ago when it was home to innkeepers and traders. Perhaps today it is the ratio of pilgrims to tourists that has changed, rather than the number of visitors.
Whether you find spiritual—or culinary—inspiration here, there is something for everyone to take home from Rocamadour!
The GR 652 path passes through Porte Basse, and continues on to La Romieu where it joins the GR 65 (Chemin de Saint-Jacques du-Puy) and heads to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port where the Camino Francès begins.
FAST FACTS
Which long-distance walk in France visits Rocamadour?
Martel to Rocamadour
Look inside the MARTEL TO ROCAMADOUR (PDF) guidebook
Where is Rocamadour, France? Find it on Google maps
Rocamadour is the last stop on this walk and is located 127 kilometres (80 miles) from the starting point of Martel.
If you are following my suggested itinerary for this nine-day walk, you’ll arrive in Rocamadour after nine days of walking. This relaxed pace allows plenty of time to relax and enjoy the nine ‘most beautiful villages’ along the way – Martel, Turenne, Collonges-la-Rouge, Curemonte, Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne, Autoire, Loubressac and Carennac and to explore Château de Castelnau-Bretenoux.
If you prefer to set your own agenda, I share the steps I take to plan my itinerary on any long-distance walk.
Transport options to and from Rocamadour
The Rodez—Figeac—Brive train line connects Rocamadour with Saint-Denis-près-Martel, Turenne, Figeac (located on the Chemin de Saint-Jacques), Rodez and Brive-la-Gaillarde.
Rocamadour train station is located four kilometres (2.5 miles) from the village. Each weekend from June until September, and every day during July and August, two bus services stop at the train station and in the village.
Lot region bus line 876 operates on weekends and public holidays from June to September, with daily services in July and August, connecting Rocamadour with Figeac, (located on the Chemin de Saint-Jacques), L’Hospitalet, Padirac (village) and Padirac (gouffre).
Lot region bus line 877 operates on weekends and public holidays from June to September, with daily services in July and August, connecting Rocamadour with Biars-sur-Céré train station (between Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne and Bretenoux), Bretenoux, Château de Castelnau, Padirac (village) and Padirac (gouffre), Lacave and Souillac.
Tourist Office in Rocamadour
You’ll find the Tourist Office on the main street of the village. Opening hours are listed on the Tourist Office website.
Accommodation in Rocamadour
Hotels
Hôtel Beau Site
Hôtel du Château
Le Terminus des Pélerins
Hôtel du Lion d’Or
Relais Amadourien
Chambre d’hôte
Les Pirondeaux (3 rooms, 8 people)
Gîtes
Relais du Pèlerin Notre-Dame (39 rooms, 79 people)
Gîte la Maison des 4 Chemins (10 people)
Campground
Le Relais du Campeur
Accommodation in l’Hôpitalet
Hotels
Les Esclargies
Le Belvédère
Le Bellaroc
Hostellerie Bellevue
Armadour Hôtel
How to book accommodation in French
Where to eat in Rocamadour
There are many cafés in Rocamadour and several gourmet food stores where you can purchase all sorts of regional delicacies – to enjoy now or take home!
Practical tips for long-distance walking—preparation, packing and avoiding blisters
Purchase the Martel to Rocamadour (PDF) guidebook
